Peanut Dipping Sauce: Allergies Unwelcome

Sweet readers! Thanks very much for being so patient with us last week while we got drunk on Jagermeister worked on work-stuff. It was fun doing the wayback recipe thing - I hadn't looked at some of those in quite awhile, and it made me want lassis.

I had a different post set up for today, but instead, my entire body has been possessed by a zombie demon a nasty case of hives. So, instead of going to work and bringing home the bacon (mmm...bacon) like a boss, I'm sitting at HOTUS' computer, awaiting a swift and merciful end to my pain callback from the doctor. It's very exciting, unbelievably itchy, and also kind of weird, because this has never happened before, and I don't have any allergies, as far as I know.

And now there's one on my face. ARG.

Considering the circumstances, I figured this was as good a time as any to broach the subject of allergic reactions, especially since today's dish, Peanut Dipping Sauce from Catherine Walthers' Soups + Sides, should not be eaten by those with an aversion to nuts (doy). For those without allergies, it's an easy, relatively inexpensive sauce that pairs well with satay, vegetables, and dumplings, and makes for a nice changeup to straightforward soy sauce. One batch lasted us three different meals, and I'd make it again right now if I wasn't furiously attempting to scratch my elbow off my body.

Anyway, back to that allergy thing. It's a topic we've covered only briefly here on CHG, but a very important one, since it affects the way some buy, prepare, bathe in, and consume food. I know several people with dairy issues, one or two with severe peanut allergies, and I grew up with a girl who was allergic to sugar. At the time, her condition seemed inconceivable and tragic (NOTE: I was eight), but now similar immune system reactions are pretty commonplace.

Happily, there are more foods and food products available for folks with allergies, though there can always be more. We'll hit that topic in tomorrow's Ask the Internet, but in the meantime: Do you have any food allergies yourself, or have loved ones with shellfish, nut, soy, or similar issues? How do you cope?

And with that, I'm off to find a spiky hairbrush, so I may vigorously remove my epidermis. Happy Monday!

~~~

If this looks dang tasty, you will also find mucho happiness with:

• Aromatic Noodles with Lime-Peanut Sauce
• Chicken Fried Rice
• Peanut Butter and Jelly Oatmeal

~~~

Peanut Dipping Sauce
Serves 6
Adapted from Catherine Walther's Soups + Sides

6 tablespoons natural creamy peanut butter
½ cup light coconut milk
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1-2 teaspoon grated ginger
1/2 to 1 teaspoon sriracha sauce (optional)

Mix everything thoroughly in a small bowl until smooth. Add more of any ingredient to taste as needed.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
110 calories, 8.7 g fat, 1 g fiber, 3.9 g protein, $0.30

NOTE: These calculations are without sriracha.

Calculations
6 tablespoons natural creamy peanut butter: 540 calories, 48 g fat, 6 g fiber, 21 g protein, $0.62
½ cup light coconut milk: 75 calories, 7 g fat, 0 g fiber, 1.5 g protein, $0.85
1 tablespoon soy sauce: 8 calories, 0 g fat, 0.1 g fiber, 1 g protein, $0.09
1 tablespoon brown sugar: 34 calories, 0 g fiat, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, $0.01
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice: 3 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, $0.13
1-2 teaspoon grated ginger: 2 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, $0.10
TOTAL: 662 calories, 52 g fat, 6.1 g fiber, 23.4 g protein, $1.80
PER SERVING (TOTAL/6): 110 calories, 8.7 g fat, 1 g fiber, 3.9 g protein, $0.30

Green Kitchen: Use-Up-Your-Herbs Cilantro Pesto

Green Kitchen is a bi-weekly column about nutritious, inexpensive, and ethical food and cooking. It's penned by the lovely Jaime Green.

Give me your tired, your poor, your wilted herbage straining for the trash can, the rotting refuse of your crisper drawer. Send these, the yellowing, long-forgotten to me, I will make them into awesome pesto!

That’s what your food processor is saying right now, if it were also the statue of liberty.

Talk about eating and cooking in environmentally friendly ways often comes back to the same ideas – eat local, eat unprocessed, eat happy meat. These are awesome ideas – they connect your kitchen to lovely, independent farms, shortening the distance from the soil to your fridge – but they are also sometimes difficult ideas.

Not everyone has access to greenmarkets. Not everyone has the education or skills to choose or prepare unprocessed foods. Not everyone can afford local, free-range, grass-fed, ethically raised meat. It’s sadly easy to sigh in resignation when we can’t manage those good choices and lose sight of a good choice every single one of us can make.

Do not waste food.

You know what makes a box of Dunkaroos an even less worthwhile investment of raw materials, industrial production, and your dollars? Not eating them! Want to completely negate any power for good contained in that conventionally grown midwinter Peruvian tomato? Throw it out! Wasting food is the surest way to guarantee that its environmental impact is all for naught. It’s also a surefire way to waste your money, too.

Living in a largely Dominican neighborhood means a lot of nice things for me, culinarily, not the least of which is the prevalence of cheap cilantro in the supermarket. It is not local, it is not seasonal, but it is 99 cents a bunch, and tempting to pick up to throw on sautés and in omelets and such.

But let’s be honest – more times than not, that 99-cent bunch of delicious, delicious cilantro sits in my crisper drawer until it is yellow and wilted, and it ends up not in my mouth but in my compost.

This time, I resolved to do it differently. Not to remember to use any of the cilantro for its intended purpose, of course, but to salvage it once it had gone forsaken.

A while back I’d seen a recipe online for cilantro pesto that specifically addressed this forsaken cilantro issue. No surprise, my interest was piqued. What’s that, you say? Pesto can be made with nasty, wilted cilantro? And does not require billion-dollars-a-pound pine nuts? Please, go on!

And go on this recipe did! Cilantro + oil + nuts = pesto! My cilantro wasn’t so much wilted as yellowing (with, okay, a couple of rotten leaves), but I overcame my squeamishness, pulled out the gross stuff, and was left with about two cups worth of usable greenery. “Usable” not really as it was, but hopefully the alchemy of pestoization (yes, that’s a proper use of the Italian root word) would be enough.

And so, dear reader, it was.

~~~

If this looks good, you'll surely adore:

• 156 Cheap, Healthy Recipes for Ten Common Leftover Herbs
• Gingered Carrot Soup with Lime and Cilantro
• Pesto

~~~

Cilantro Pesto
inspired by The Lazy Localvore.
makes about 6 one-tablespoon servings
(quantities are flexible for two reasons – one, so you can suit the recipe to your taste; two, because who knows how much of your languishing cilantro will be salvageable.)

2-3 cups cilantro leaves (& little stems)
1-2 T olive oil
1/8-1/4 cup slivered blanched almonds (or other nut)
1/8-1/4 t salt
dash of garlic powder

Put cilantro, almonds, salt, and garlic powder into bowl of food processor. Process, streaming in olive oil as you go. Pulse until it is a thick paste, with nuts chopped finely but not pulverized. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
60 calories, 5.7g fat, 0.7g fiber, 1.1g protein, $0.22

Calculations
3 cups cilantro leaves: 18 calories, 0g fat, 1g fiber, 1g protein, $0.99
1.5 T olive oil: 189 calories, 21g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.12
1/4 c slivered blanched almonds: 155 calories, 13.3g fat, 3.3g fiber, 5.7g protein, $0.15
1/4 t salt: 0 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.01
dash garlic powder: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein, $0.02
TOTAL: 362 calories, 34.3g fat, 4.3g fiber, 6.7g protein, $1.29
PER SERVING (TOTAL/6): 60 calories, 5.7g fat, 0.7g fiber, 1.1g protein, $0.22

Curried Pumpkin Hummus: For Certain Tastes

In some ways, recipes are a lot like bands. There are many, like mac-n-cheese and the Beatles, that everybody loves. There are others, like liver-n-onions and Michael Bolton, that a bold few will admit to even liking. And finally, there are the rare recipes/bands that you dig with your whole heart, but know that only a few like-minded others will appreciate. Like Curried Pumpkin Hummus and Concrete Blonde.

Concrete Blonde was a late-80s/early-90s alt-rock group that boasted a frontwoman by the name of Johnette Napolitano, undoubtedly one of the greatest rock singers on Earth. Unfortunately, they had a tendency towards melodrama, and weren’t very adept at writing hooks. So CB had a huge hit, “Joey,” along with one or two smaller ones, and then pretty much disappeared. (Though, I do think they play occasional reunion shows.)

For me, Johnette’s voice - a husky, powerful, once-in-a-blue-moon instrument – usually trumped the band’s shortcomings. For others, "Joey" was the limit of their interest. Not that there's anything wrong with that. I loathed Led Zeppelin for many years before "Over the Hills and Far Away" overcame that last lingering antipathy. (Also, we saw Robert Plant at a Knicks game once, and it was awesome.)

And so it is with Curried Pumpkin Hummus, from Diane Morgan's Skinny Dips. I liked it, HOTUS was ambivalent, and I couldn't see my mom digging it at all.

First off, it's not a strict hummus. In fact, calling it Curried Pumpkin Chickpea Dip might be more accurate, since "hummus" usually connotes lemon and tahini. Second, the pumpkin is the dominant flavor, overwhelming both the honey (okay) and curry (say wha?). This appeals to me, but pumpkin pie haters, beware. Third and finally, it's atomic orange in hue, which could turn off less adventurous palettes. (On the other hands, kids might go nuts for it, and the dip is perfect for Halloween.)

So, there you have it. You might like CPH. You might not. Try it while listening to "Tomorrow, Wendy" and get back to me.

~~~

If this looks dang tasty, you might also enjoy:

• Guacamole Bean Dip Mashup
• Light Tomato Sauce
• Seven-Layer Taco Dip

~~~

Curried Pumpkin Hummus
Makes 11 servings of 1/4 cup each
From Skinny Dips by Diane Morgan.

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 1/2 tablespoon honey
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie mix)
1 1/2 teaspoon minced ginger
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Heat oil in a small nonstick pan over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until just fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds. Add curry powder. Cook, stirring constantly, until everything is combined and fragrant, about 60 additional seconds. Add honey and stir until combined. Set aside.

2. In a food processor, puree chickpeas. Add pumpkin, ginger, salt, and garlic mixture. Puree. Adjust seasoning. Serve immediately or put in refrigerator so flavors can meld. Serve.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
72 calories, 2 g fat, 4 g fiber, 2 g protein, $0.27

NOTE: All nutritional calculations were provided by Diane Morgan. Only the price numbers are my own.

Calculations
1 tablespoon olive oil: $0.10
2 cloves garlic, minced: $0.08
1 tablespoon curry powder: $0.11
1 1/2 tablespoon honey: $0.22
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed: $0.75
1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie mix): $1.59
1 1/2 teaspoon minced ginger: $0.10
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt: $0.02
TOTAL: $2.97
PER SERVING (TOTAL/11): $0.27

Artichoke Pesto Dip and Mah Favorite CHG Recipes

We like cooking. And food. And, as of today, we here at CHG have something like 430 recipes in our archives. Leigh, Jaime, Rachel, and I have all tried them at least once. But there are only a few – maybe a dozen or so – I make with any regularity. Part of this is because constant experimentation with new dishes doesn’t leave a lot of time to go back and enjoy old favorites. The other part: these dozen are so tasty, I need to have them all the time.

They are:

• Easy Vegetarian Bean Chili
• Gingerbread Oatmeal
• Macaroni and Cheese
• Macaroni with Broccoli and Chickpeas
• Oatmeal with Soy Sauce, Sesame Oil, and Scallions
• Pasta with Asparagus and Mushrooms
• Pasta with Mushrooms, Peppers, and Onions
• Roast Chicken with Two Lemons
• Roasted Brussels Sprouts
• Roasted Eggplant Spread
• Sweet Lassi
• White Bean Dip

(NOTE: Carbs much?)

That last one – White Bean Dip – I make it more often than anything else on this blog, with the possible exception of Oatmeal with Soy Sauce, Sesame Oil, and Scallions. The dip is a fabulous alternative to hummus, and about a million times cheaper. Basically, all you need is a can of small white beans, five minutes, and a food processor. (Actually, you don’t even need the food processor. A potato masher and some good upper body strength is just the ticket.)

But? Thanks to Diane Morgan’s Skinny Dips, which came out late last year, there may be a new dip in town. Artichoke Pesto Dip is the name of the usurper, and though slightly pricier, it is a bowlful of pure joy. I want to spread it on toast. I want to spread it on pasta. I want to spread it on my taste buds, so each may know the joy of artichokes, lemon, Parmesan, and various sundries.

It will be on this list soon.

~~~

If you dig this dip, you’ll surely dig:

• Grasslands Herb Salsa
• Pesto
• White Bean Dip

~~~

Artichoke Pesto Dip
Makes 1 cup or 8 (2 tablespoon) servings
From Skinny Dips by Diane Morgan

1 (15-ounce) can artichoke hearts packed in water, drained
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 small clove garlic, minced
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
a few grinds black pepper

1) Place artichoke hearts in a food processor. Pulse a few times, until rough-chopped.

2) Add Parmesan, olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pulse until dip reaches consistency you like. Serve with tortilla, pita, or what have you.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
48 calories, 3.9 g fat, 1 g fiber, 2 g protein, $0.41

NOTE: Author Diane Morgan calculated the nutrition numbers in Skinny Dips, so only the price is listed here. Also, I added more Parmesan to my version, which was very nice, as well.

Calculations
1 (15-ounce) can artichoke hearts packed in water, drained: $2.29
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese: $0.45
2 tablespoons olive oil: $0.10
1 tablespoon lemon juice: $0.33
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley: $0.10
1 small clove garlic, minced: $0.04
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt: $0.01
a few grinds black pepper: $0.01
TOTAL: $3.33
PER SERVING (TOTAL/8): $0.41

The Top 10 Signs You’re Becoming a Better Cook, Plus Easy Chicken Pan Gravy

You guys? I was making Easy Chicken Pan Gravy last week when something hit me. Over the years, I've become a pretty decent cook. Not a good cook, per se, but a decent one. I'm fairly confident no one will die / vomit / write heartbreaking soliloquies after they eat my food.

Upon the realization, I started brainstorming some benchmarks - noticeable and definitive signs that you've come a long way, culinarily speaking. Here's what I came up with:

1. You eyeball ingredient measurements.
   
   
2. You substitute ably and with abandon.
   
   
3. You regularly improve on recipes written by professionals.
   
   
4. You search for physical indications (browning, thickness, scent, etc.) that a recipe is done, rather than use times.
   
   
5. You have an ever-expanding repertoire of dishes you know by heart, and can easily go a week without consulting a recipe.
   
   
6. You bring lunch to work not because you want to save money or watch your waistline, but because  your leftovers are fantastic.
   
   
7. You don’t choose certain restaurant dishes because you can make it just as well – or even better – by yourself at home.
   
   
8. Your pickiest friend will eat your food without complaint.
   
   
9. Your foodie-est friend will eat your food with glee.
   
   
10. Your parents entrust you with Thanksgiving.

Readers, how about you? What are some signs you're becoming / have become better cooks? Is it  something you can measure with milestones, even?

Also, this gravy is good and you should eat it.

~~~

Mmm … sauce. If this looks all nice and stuff, you will surely enjoy:

• Creamy Caesar Dressing
• Orange-Sesame Stir Fry Sauce
• Spicy Brown Mustard

~~~

Easy Chicken Pan Gravy (With Chicken)
Serves 4

16 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast, sliced into thin (1/2-inch or so) filets
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (15-ounce) can low-sodium chicken broth
1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 tablespoon olive oil

1) Pat chicken dry and season one side liberally with salt and pepper. Pour half can of chicken broth into measuring cup and whisk flour in thoroughly. (There should be no lumps.) Keep other half in the can and set aside.

2) In a large pan, heat oil over high heat. With tongs, carefully place chicken seasoned-side down in pan. Cook until browned, about 3 to 6 minutes. While cooking, season exposed side with salt and pepper. Flip, and cook another 3 to 6 minutes, until second side is browned. Remove to a plate and keep warm. (Tent with tin foil, if you like.)

3) Pour broth in can into hot pan, scraping up browned bits with wooden spoon. Cook on high until broth is reduced by about half.

4) Give the flour/broth mixture one more quick whisk, and pour into pan, stirring constantly. Reduce heat a little, to medium or medium-high. Cook, stirring often, until sauce is thick and gravy-like. This could take anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes, so keep an eye on it.

5) When gravy hits the desired consistency, season with salt and pepper. If necessary (i.e. lumps), strain into your fancy serving vessel (measuring glass, gravy bowl, etc.). Otherwise, just pour it in. Then, dollop over chicken and/or potatoes and serve.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
151 calories, 3.3 g fat, 0 fiber, 26.8 g fiber, $0.72

NOTE: I used College Inn chicken broth from CostCo for my calculations.

Calculations
16 ounces chicken breast, sliced into thin (1/2-inch or so) filets: 497 calories, 5.4 g fat, 0 g fiber, 104.4 g protein, $2.14
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein, $0.02
1 (15-ounce) can low-sodium chicken broth: 20 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g fiber, 2 g protein, $0.64
1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour: 26 calories, 0 g fat, 0.2 g fiber, 0.7 g protein, $0.01
1/2 tablespoon olive oil: 60 calories, 6.7 g fat, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, $0.05
TOTALS: 603 calories, 13.1 g fat, 0.2 g fiber, 107.1 g fiber, $2.86
PER SERVING (TOTAL/4): 151 calories, 3.3 g fat, 0 fiber, 26.8 g fiber, $0.72

Green Kitchen: Chopped Liver

Green Kitchen is a bi-weekly column about nutritious, inexpensive, and ethical food and cooking. It's penned by the lovely Jaime Green.

As you may have read in this recent edition of Ask the Internet, I recently concluded thirteen years of vegetarianism. (The short version is that, back when I was fifteen, I tried going veg just to see if I could, and stuck with it largely out of stubbornness/determination. I later – like Queen Elizabeth & the Church of England – added some principles, but my belief that eating animals isn't wrong, but making them suffer is, is still compatible with conscientious meat eating. Also, I don't eat a lot of grains, so I was really, really bored.)

And lo, adding an entire food supergroup back into one’s options is fun! And tasty. It’s been a long time – I guess since I fell in love with farmers markets and cooking itself three or four years ago – since I’ve had such exciting culinary adventures. I roasted a whole chicken! I made stock from its carcass! I am developing an addiction to hamburgers! Etc.

I’m also reconnecting with a lot of foods from my (distant, almost-half-a-lifetime-ago) past. Rotisserie chicken is one of a very few meat-foods that never stopped making my vegetarian mouth water, and sure enough, it is amaaaaaaazing. I would take it over bacon any day.

This chopped liver comes out of both of those impulses – the adventures and the amazing foods from way back when. (Oh, and my new friendship with the small butcher’s shop half a block from my apartment.) Who am I to be afraid of some organs, I who have ventured into the unknown recesses of greenmarket farm stands, I who have taken home the ugly, strange, and cheap vegetables of every season? Also, dude, organs are CHEAP.

I bought my pound of chicken livers from Bob and Julio down the street from me – they sell organic chickens (among many other things, like homemade lasagna), and I guess not everyone wants every part of the bird? Which is bananas, because these things are tasty and super good for you – howsabout some vitamin A, a bunch of B vitamins, folic acid, iron, copper, and CoQ10, which helps your heart do its thing, along with plenty of protein?

And then there is the flashback factor. Specifically, flashbacks to my Grandma Martha’s studio apartment on Long Island, hanging out before a holiday dinner, tiny Jaime with her tiny cousins and sister in tiny party dresses, scooping rich chopped liver onto crackers or, given the season, little matzah squares. Were we too young and carefree to know that livers might be squicky? Or would we not even entertain that thought because the stuff was so darn good?

This recipe comes not from a Jewish Grandma but from my friend’s decidedly non-Jewish own mother, a lovelier and WASPier lady you never shall meet. But somewhere in the mists of history her great-greats and mine lived in adjacent cottages in a Polish village, and as far as I can tell across the gulf of, like, twenty years, this chopped liver recipe yields a product identical in taste to Grandma’s.

(That means it’s delicious.)

~~~

If this seems neato, you will also appreciate:

• Guacamole-Bean Dip Mashup
• Sweet Potato Kugel
• White Bean Dip

~~~

Chopped Liver
(makes 16 2-Tbsp servings)

1 lb chicken livers (thawed if they came frozen)
3 Tbs butter
½ onion, chopped (1/2 to ¾ cup)
A few dashes of Worcestershire sauce
2 Tbsp mayonnaise (sorry Kris!)
Juice of half a lemon (or to taste)

1. Melt the butter in a sauté man over medium-high heat. Add onions and a few dashes of Worcestershire sauce, and sauté until onions start to soften.

2. Add chicken livers and sauté until they are cooked through (no pink), about 10-15 minutes.

3. Pour/scrape all of that into a food processor. Add mayonnaise. Pulse until it’s the consistency you like – the worst that’ll happen if you overdo it is you’ll get a classy-as-heck mousse – adding a few squeezes of lemon juice to taste.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
82.6 calories, 5.4g fat, 0.1g fiber, 7g protein, $0.23

Calculations
1 lb chicken livers: 758 calories, 29.5g fat, 0g fiber, 111g protein, $2.50
3 Tbs butter: 305 calories, 34.6g fat, 0g fiber, 0.4g protein, $0.48
½ onion: 48 calories, 0.1g fat, 2g fiber, 1.3g protein, $0.30
A few dashes of Worcestershire sauce: 3 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.05
2 Tbsp mayonnaise: 200 calories, 22g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.20
Juice of half a lemon: 8 calories, 0g fat, 0.1g fiber, 0.1g protein, $0.13
TOTAL: 1322 calories, 86.2g fat, 2.1g fiber, 112.8g protein, $3.66
PER SERVING (TOTAL/16): 82.6 calories, 5.4g fat, 0.1g fiber, 7g protein, $0.23

Veggie Might: Making Friends—Fava Beans Redeemed

Written by the fabulous Leigh, Veggie Might is a weekly Thursday column about all things Vegetarian.

Fava beans have been haunting my dreams ever since the unfortunate Fava Bean Disaster of 2009. Every now and then, when it’s quiet and my thoughts turn to food, I find myself thinking about them and how I might redeem myself from such a fiasco.

On Sunday, I wandered into my local deli to pick up seltzer and something snacky to shove in my mouth while watching the Oscars. I aimlessly strolled the aisles until the smallish Middle Eastern foods section caught my attention. The deli owners hail from Yemen and keep two shelves at the back of the store stocked with beans and tahini.

I picked up a can of fava beans and made my way to the cash register. The clerk on duty, Khaled, who knows me and my preference for orange seltzer, looked at me with surprise when I put the can of fava beans on the counter.

“This is Arab food!” he said, smiling.

“I like Arab food,” I replied.

He laughed. “Do you know what to do?”

Jackpot! I thought.

“No, tell me.” I whipped a notebook and a pen from my bag and wrote down exactly what he said.

“Okay. Just oil, onion, garlic, tomato sauce, a half a tomato. Mix it all up. Wait. Mash beans first. But put in last.”

“Hang on a sec...,” I said. This was going to take some sorting. Then a man who’d been standing nearby chimed in. His name was Altef.

“Cook the onion and garlic. Then add the tomato sauce. Mix in the mashed beans,” he said.

“And some water,” Khaled interrupted. “Mix all together.”

“It sounds terrific.”

“Yes,” said Khaled. “Come back and tell me.”

We exchanged smiles and handshakes as the fava beans and I ventured out into the night.

Readers, you are third to know (CB was second) that I’ve finally had a fava bean victory! Like a Middle Eastern version of bean dip, this recipe makes a savory, tangy, garlicky spread for pita, crackers, or chips. Which is great for me, because chips and dip is CB’s second favorite food after pizza.

I made a couple changes to Khaled and Altef’s recipe. Since tomatoes are out of season, I substituted “tomato sauce and 1/2 tomato” for canned crushed tomatoes (what I had). A combination of diced or canned whole tomatoes and sauce would work great too. Once I combined all the ingredients per their instructions, I had a tasty bean mash that was a skosh flat. Lemon juice and parsley brightened it right up.

Except for the parsley—and the fava beans—this dish was made entirely of ingredients I had on hand. I think it would work with any mashable bean, and the stew is yummy with whole chick peas too, which I had for lunch today.

Fava Beans with Tomatoes was even better next day after the flavors had a chance to meld. CB and I had it along with the chick pea version, homemade hummus, steamed kale, and pita bread, for our own little at-home tapas meal. It would also be a welcome addition to the dip section of your next party spread. Just be sure to invite your new friends who gave you the recipe.

~~~~

If you fancied this recipe, you may also enjoy:

• Guacamole-Bean Dip Mash-up
• Tunisian-style Greens and Beans
• Pindi Chana

~~~

Fava Beans with Tomatoes
Serves 6
Inspired by Khaled and Altef at the 9th Ave. Deli

1 1/2 cup fava beans, mashed
16 ounces crushed tomatoes
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon pepper
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped

1) Drain and rinse fava beans; then mash and set aside.

2) In a medium sauce pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Saute onion and garlic until onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Add crushed tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 5 more minutes.

3) Mix in mashed beans with 1/4 cup water (and chopped tomato, if in season). Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring until thick. Take care; this stuff is splattery.

4) When the mixture is the consistency you like for bean dip, remove from heat and stir in lemon juice and chopped parsley.

5) Serve with warm pita bread as part of tapas spread with other small bites, like hummus, baba ghanouj, wilted greens, stewed chick peas and new friends.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price per Serving
72 calories, 2g fat, 3g fiber, 4g protein, $0.42

Calculations
1 1/2 cup fava beans: 273 calories, 1.5g fat, 13.5g fiber, 21g protein, $0.98
16 ounces crushed tomatoes: 82 calories, 0g fat, 4g fiber, 4g protein, $0.99
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil: 79.2 calories, 9.24g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.05
1 small onion: 20 calories, 0.1g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.25
6 cloves garlic: 24 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.07
1 teaspoon salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1 tablespoon pepper: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1 tablespoon lemon juice: 3 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.06
1 tablespoon parsley: 1.3 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.07
TOTALS: 429 calories, 11g fat, 17.5g fiber, 25g protein, $2.51
PER SERVING (TOTALS/6): 72 calories, 2g fat, 3g fiber, 4g protein, $0.42

Pumpkin Butter: The Revenge

The following tale is a harrowing, totally true account of how I finally hacked a sugar pumpkin in two. Read on … if you dare.

When: A brisk October night, 2010

Where: A vaguely haunted Brooklyn kitchen

Who:

• Kris, a pale, tall, somewhat uncoordinated 32-year-old writer/cook, whose only goal for the evening is harvesting the sweet flesh of autumn gourds.
• The Sugar Pumpkin, a three-pound, iron-hided, carrot-hued possible herald of Satan.

Kris creeps warily into the kitchen, clutching a large chef’s knife. There is a single fluorescent light overhead, casting shadows long and stark across the linoleum.

KRIS: Hello? Is there anyone there? Anyone? Hellooooo?

There is only silence.

KRIS: Marco?

THE SUGAR PUMPKIN: Polo.

KRIS: AUGH!

The Sugar Pumpkin leaps from the refrigerator to Kris’ shoulder, but promptly plummets to the ground, as it has no limbs with which to choke her.

TSP: Dang. That never works.

KRIS: Sugar Pumpkin! I knew you were hiding here somewhere. How did you get on top of the fridge? With your evil, Lucifer-given powers, I bet.

TSP: You left me there when you were unloading the groceries.

KRIS: Nice try, demon! But it’s all too obvious; denizens of the netherworld bestowed the gift of flight upon you.

TSP: No, look, the bananas are up there, too.

KRIS: Not the bananas! Mephistopheles got to them, as well?

TSP: Seriously, you just forgot.

KRIS: Never thee mind, fiend! Because now … it is time for you to die.

Kris lunges at The Sugar Pumpkin with her blade.

KRIS: Die! DIE!

Kris fails.

KRIS: Crap.

TSP: Ha! Nice try, kid. But I’m invincible, and it wasn’t the devil that did it. Your supermarket blasted me with gamma rays, to ensure that hapless home cooks like yourself never have access to my sweet, low-calorie flesh.

KRIS: But how will I create pumpkin butter, with which to spread on quickbreads and dollop on top of oatmeal and make into pancakes?

TSP: You got me.

KRIS: Also, gamma rays? Isn’t that a Hulk thing? Shouldn’t you be green?

TSP: You’d think so, wouldn’t you? Anyhoo, I’ll be on my way.

KRIS: NEVER!

Kris finds an axe behind the fridge.

KRIS: Die! Die! For real this time!

Kris buries the axe in her own foot.

KRIS: Ow.

TSP: Hm. Unexpected.

KRIS: Okay. I’m going to need a band-aid here.

TSP: Wow! Check out the patterns your blood spatter is making! (motions to wall) That one looks like a ducky.

KRIS (pointing at ceiling): Oo! And there's Carl Yastrzemski!

TSP: I would have said Elliott Gould, but I can see what you’re going for.

They laugh for a good five minutes.

KRIS: You know, this is fun and all, but I’m starting to lose consciousness.

TSP: Here. Let me get you a towel.

KRIS: That’s very sweet of you, Sugar Pumpkin. I appreciate that.

TSP: Really, it’s no problem.

The Sugar Pumpkin turns his back for the towel. Kris, despite being attached via axe to the kitchen floor, gathers her remaining strength and clobbers TSP with a kitchen chair. It splits in half.

TSP: NOOOOO! But … but … I … I was … Lowenstein …

KRIS: Sorry, gourd. Halloween recipes take no prisoners.

TSP: Blerg.

The Sugar Pumpkin dies.

KRIS: Hm. Still bleeding. (begins to yell) Is anyone else home? Hellooooo? HELLOOOOOO? I’m starting to feel FAIIIIIINT!

Kris blacks out, but raises her head one final time to impart hard earned words of wisdom for the ages.

KRIS: In retrospect, this was not well planned.

~fini~

~~~

If this tickles your orange fancy, you might also enjoy:

• All Night Apple Butter
• Pumpkin Bread
• Pumpkin Orzo with Sage (Vegan / non-vegan)

~~~

Pumpkin Butter
Makes about 3 cups, or 32 servings of 1-1/2 tablespoons each.
Adapted from All Recipes.

1 3-lb. sugar pumpkin (Yields about 22 ounces of flesh)
1 cup apple cider
1 cup light brown sugar, loosely packed (plus more if needed)
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
Pinch of salt

1) Preheat oven to 375°F

2) Hack pumpkin in half, however you can. (Just do it very, very carefully.) (Alternately, use a can of pumpkin puree and skip this step entirely.) Seed it and cut out the stem. Place cut-side-down in a 9x13 glass baking dish and tent loosely with tin foil. Roast about 90 minutes, or until pumpkin is easily removed from skin.

3) In a medium pot, whisk pumpkin together with apple cider. Add sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and salt and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer, then cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently. (Do not abandon. This stuff steams.) For extra-silky butter, use a stick blender to smooth it out when finished. Let cool a little bit and store in fridge.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
30 calories, 0.05 g fat, 0.3 g fiber, 0.16 g protein, $0.12

Calculations
1 3-lb. sugar pumpkin (yields about 22 ounces of flesh): 125 calories, 0.6 g fat, 6.9 g fiber, 4.5 g protein, $2.46
1 cup apple cider: 120 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, $0.31
1 cup light brown sugar, loosely packed: 688 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, $0.60
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon: 12 calories, 0.1 g fat, 2.5 g fiber, 0.2 g protein, $0.15
2 teaspoons ground ginger: 12 calories, 0.2 g fat, 0.5 g fiber, 0.3 g protein, $0.15
1 teaspoon nutmeg: 12 calories, 0.8 g fat, 0.5 g fiber, 0.1 g protein, $0.10
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves: 2 calories, 0.1 g fat, 0.2 g fiber. 0 g protein, $0.02
Pinch of salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein, $0.01
TOTAL: 971 calories, 1.6 g fat, 10.6 g fiber, 5.1 g protein, $3.80
PER SERVING (TOTAL/32): 30 calories, 0.05 g fat, 0.3 g fiber, 0.16 g protein, $0.12

Green Kitchen: Chunky Spiced Unsweetened Applesauce

Green Kitchen is a bi-weekly column about nutritious, inexpensive, and ethical food and cooking. It’s penned by the lovely Jaime Green.

I'd like to take a moment to think on the lessons of zucchini.

I greet the first greenmarket zucchini with excitement – just like every vegetable's first seasonal appearance, this is a momentous occasion. Fresh and bright and less than $2 a pound, I take them home in big bundles, sauteeing them simply for the sweet zucchini flavor.

Fast-forward to August and we're like, Uggh, please, no more zucchini! I know you are cheap, summer squash, but I am sick of you.

Friends, let us not let the apple fall prey to the same late-season disenchantment.

We must take action now, at the start of apple season, to ward off an early winter apple fatigue. Apples, like zucchini, are cheap. They are delicious. They are healthy. But they also survive storage really, really well, and will still be around in cheerful piles come, like, February. Fruit in February! It seems amazing now, but the midwinter farmers market devotee looks at apples like cockroaches after a nuclear winter – their fortitude is admirable, but what you wouldn't give for a delicate berry.

So I say to you now, stop apple fatigue before it starts! Don't binge on raw honeycrisps for the next two months, only to fight tears and a slight gag reflex when they're the only non-potato thing at the greenmarket this winter. Bring to the start of apple season the creativity that usually marks the end of a fruit or vegetable's yearly time, but with excitement and ingenuity rather than bleary-eyed desperation.

We must take advantage of the autumn's apple bounty, lay in stores of this cheap, healthy, delicious fruit, and get creative with it!

Also I've come up with an apple sauce recipe that's really, really good. Like, I just had to take a break from writing about it to go get some from the fridge good.

Awesome things about this apple sauce, other than it being so tasty:
—No sugar! Apples are plenty sweet on their own.
—No milling, grinding, processing, or whatever! This sauce is nice and chunky, which also makes it more versatile than a smooth puree. I've been mixing it in with Greek yogurt all week.
—So cheap! I got my apples for $0.37/lb in a big 4lb bag. Applesauce apples don't need to be pretty, or even the tasty, crisp, sweet apples you'd choose for raw eating. Get 'em cheap.
—It freezes well! I spooned some into a quart freezer bag and used this method for rice-freezing to separate it into individual portions. Come March when the memory of fresh apples grows fond and crappy supermarket produce beckons, I'll have this tastiness stowed away, ready to defrost.
—You may feel like a prairie homesteader while making it, which is silly, because apples are not a prairie thing, but it feels good old-timey domestic. Or maybe that's just me. But it was fun.

(PS: Do plumped-up raisins remind anyone else of Danny, the Champion of the World? God, that book is the best.)

~~~

If you like this recipe, you may enjoy:
All Night Apple Butter
Maple-Ginger Applesauce
Autumn Apple Salad

~~~

Chunky Spiced Applesauce (Unsweetened)

makes approximately 1 quart, or 8 1/2-cup servings

4 lbs apples (about 10 cups chopped)
1 cup raisins
3 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp nutmeg
a few dashes cayenne
a dash of salt

Instructions
1. Core and chop the apples. The larger your chunks, the chunkier your sauce. Unevenness is fine, too.

2. As you collect your chopped apples in a large bowl or whatnot, add a tablespoon of lemon juice every few apples. This keeps the apples from browning and is good for the sauce.

3. Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add the apples, stirring to get them all hot.

4. Once the apples start to release some water, add raisins and salt.

5. Cook 20-30 minutes, until apples reach your desired mushiness, stirring every so often. If things look dry, add a half cup of water.

6. Stir in spices; taste. Adjust as necessary.

7. Try not to burn your mouth.

Approximate calories, fat, fiber, protein, and cost per serving:
128 calories, 0.4g fat, 4.1g fiber, 0.9g protein, $0.35

Calculations
4 lbs apples: 567 calories, 1.9g fat, 26.2g fiber, 2.8g protein, $1.50
1 cups raisins: 433 calories, .5g fat, 5.4g fiber, 4.5g protein, $1.19
3 tbsp lemon juice: 3 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.04
2 tsp cinnamon: 2 calories, 0g fat, 0.5g fiber, 0g protein, $0.02
1 tsp ground ginger: 6 calories, 0g fat, 0.2g fiber, 0.2g protein, $0.03
1 tsp nutmeg: 12 calories, 0.8g fat, 0.5g fiber, 0g protein, $0.01
a few dashes cayenne: 0 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.01
a dash of salt: 0 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.01

TOTAL: 1023 calories, 3.2g fat, 33.1g fiber, 7.5g protein, $2.81
PER SERVING (TOTAL/8): 128 calories, 0.4g fat, 4.1g fiber, 0.9g protein, $0.35

Veggie Might: Easy Tomato Sauce

Penned by the effervescent Leigh, Veggie Might is a weekly Thursday column about the wide world of Vegetarianism.

For years I avoided making my own tomato pasta sauce based on several misconceptions:
1) Jarred sauce is fine
2) Making homemade tomato sauce is hard
3) You have to be Italian with instinctual sauce know-how

Let’s debunk these one at a time.

1) Jarred sauce is fine if you like bland sauce and don’t mind spending just as much time and effort “perking up” what comes out of the jar as you would making a batch from scratch. Plus, jarred sauces are high in sodium and preservatives that keep the smiling at you on the shelf for a good long time. They can also get expensive.

2) Making homemade tomato sauce is hard if you think chopping is hard. The rest is putting stuff in a pot and stirring. Really! Now what you put in the pot takes a little thought and alchemey, but there are recipes and gurus out there to guide you. Find one you like and make it your own. Before you know it, you’ll be making sauce without a recipe, just like an Italian auntie.

3) You have to be Italian with instinctual sauce know-how like I am Italian. There is not a twig or bit of Latin bark to be found anywhere on my Anglo-Saxon-Scots-Irish family tree, and I wear long sleeves to the beach. But I finally got over the fact that the absence of a sauce gene and an Italian nana shouldn’t stop me from kicking out some great sauce. My pal SL, her mama, and her Zia Stella would be proud.

My easy tomato sauce is so simple and pretty fast. You can make it with canned or fresh tomatoes, and it only takes about 40 minutes. You can cook the pasta while the sauce simmers. It’s ideal for a weeknight supper and keeps well for leftovers and lunches.

I made two versions of this sauce and both were delicious. You can mix and match ingredients and essentially choose your own adventure. Herbs can be swapped out based on your personal preferences or what you have around the kitchen.

Version 1: Fresh tomatoes and balsamic vinegar made a chunky, sweet sauce with loads of flavor. I used a 1/2 tbsp less sugar for this version, since balsamic vinegar is much sweeter than other vinegars, especially as it cooks down. The rosemary got a bit lost, but it was still quite delicious.

I forgot to peel or remove the seeds from the fresh tomatoes, and it wasn’t too much of an issue, but I recommend you do both of those things for a saucier sauce. Peeling tomatoes is so easy. Just drop the tomatoes in boiling water for about 30 seconds, remove with tongs or a slotted spoon and allow to cool. Then pierce the skin with a knife and the skin will peel right off.

Version 2: Canned diced tomatoes with red wine vinegar made a tangy, bright sauce that really highlighted the fresh rosemary. This sauce is gorgeous over sauteed vegetables and whole wheat pasta.

So that’s it. Cast away whatever crazy notions have been keeping you from making your own sauce and be Italian.

~~~

If you like this recipe, you may enjoy:
Spaghetti Squash Puttanesca
Pasta with Eggplant, Zucchini, and Mushrooms
Tomato Sauce II:Light Lidia’s Tomato Sauce

~~~

Easy Tomato Sauce

Serves 8

1 tbsp olive oil
1 large yellow onion, finely diced
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 28-oz can diced tomatoes (or 2 lbs fresh, diced + 1/4 cup water)
1 tbsp tomato paste
2 tbsp red wine vinegar (or balsamic vinegar)
1 1/2 tbsp sugar (or 1 tbsp if using balsamic vinegar)
1 tsp dried oregano (or 2 tsp fresh, chopped)
2 tsp dried rosemary, crushed (or 1 1/2 tbsp fresh, finely chopped)
salt and pepper to taste

Instructions
1. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and cook for about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook together for about 4 minutes or until onions are soft and translucent. Add oregano and rosemary to onion and garlic and cook for another minute or two.

2. To the vegetables, add tomatoes, tomato paste, vinegar, and sugar. Stir well, combining all flavors. Salt and pepper to taste. Bring sauce to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes up to 1 hour, adding water, a tablespoon at a time, if necessary. (I only added water when I used fresh tomatoes.)

3. Serve over your favorite pasta and vegetables, top with fresh basil or parsley, and share the story of how your zia from the old country taught you how to make sauce.


Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price per Serving
52 calories, 1.8g fat, .75g fiber, .75g protein, $.64

Note: This recipe can be made with canned or fresh tomatoes. Cost was calculated based on recipe made with canned tomatoes.

Calculations
1 tbsp olive oil: 120 calories, 14g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.08
1 large yellow onion: 52 calories, 0.3g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.65
6 cloves garlic: 25 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.07
1 28-oz can diced tomatoes: 132 calories, 0g fat, 6g fiber, 6g protein, $3.00
1 tbsp tomato paste: 12 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.62
2 tbsp red wine vinegar: 6 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.26
1 tbsp sugar: 67.5 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.04
sugar, granulated, 3 tsps: 45 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.03
1 tsp dried oregano: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1 1/2 tbsp fresh rosemary: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.08
salt and pepper to taste: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.04
TOTALS: 417.5 calories, 14.3g fat, 6g fiber, 6g protein, $5.15
PER SERVING (totals/8): 52 calories, 1.8g fat, .75g fiber, .75g protein, $.64

Veggie Might: Vegan Mayo and Worcestershire for Cookout Independence

Sweet readers: Today kicks off No-Cook Month on Cheap Healthy Good! Join us as we never turn on our stoves, ever.

Girls and boys, it’s been as hot as blue blazes around these parts (New York City, if you’re just joining us). Luckily for me, I have a sensitive little cookie monster who requires air conditioning for summer survival. No, not me—I can take the heat.

However, my Charming Boyfriend does not; and his apartment is consistently two- to three-degrees hotter than outside. Thank Maude for NO COOK MONTH!

To kick it off, I’m dipping back into a past theme: make your own condiments. It’s not a stove-free meal, but with Canada Day upon us (happy, happy, up there!), and the 4th of July just days away, I figured everyone’s cooking out anyway. Vegans and vegetarians will need something animal-free to slather on and spice up their veggie burgs, tofu dogs, and grilled portobellos.

Vegan Mayo
While Kris promises to keep this site mayo-free, I make no such vow, and besides vegan mayo is really just tofu sauce. Even Kris can get behind that right? Right? Hey, Miss K, where are you going? (Um ... I have a thing. - Kris)

Anyhoo…this creamy, light sandwich spread does no harm to the baby chicks, cuts down on picnic botulism (or is it salmonella? I’m always confusing my food-borne illnesses…), and is perfect on sandwiches and salads—anywhere mayo or that other processed sandwich glop dares to tread.

All you need are a few simple ingredients, a food processor/blender (or a strong whisking arm), and you’ll be too cool for the real deal in no time.

Vegan Worcestershire Sauce
Worcestershire sauce is one of those nonvegetarian foodstuffs that can sneak past even the most diligent animal-bits teetotaler. The original, stuff of apothecary legend, is made with anchovies or other fishy paste. That’ll kill the buzz, from the bloody marys to the chex mix, at any veghead’s party.

Turns out, a veggie version is tres easy, and requires just a little patience, along with a couple not-so-secret ingredients: molasses and tamarind concentrate. Tamarind is a sour fruit found in Africa and Southeast Asia, is commonly used in Indian, Thai, and Latin American cooking, and can be found at Indian or Latin markets.

Molasses is the anti-high fructose corn syrup.

There is something about the molasses and tamarind that give the Worcestershire sauce its depth and zing. I thought the fish paste would be the biggest flavor factor, but the batch I made—just by letting the spices meld overnight—tastes shockingly close to the original.

The veggie wor’st was tangy and spicy on homemade veggie burgers along with the first harvest of lettuce from CB’s fire-escape herb garden. The vegan mayo added a smooth and delicious complement.

Whip up a set of homemade, vegan condiments for your holiday cookout to mark your complete independence from processed foods. Or just because it’s fun make stuff from scratch.

Happy 3rd anniversary and happy Independence Day, everyone!

~~~

If this article tips your canoe, swim on over to

• Make Your Own Ketchup
• Make Your Own Mustard
• Western North Carolina BBQ Sauce

~~~

Vegan Mayo
Makes 1 cup or 16 1-tablespoon servings.
Adapted from How to Cook Everything Vegetarian by Mark Bittman.

6 oz silken tofu
1/4 cup safflower oil
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon salt

1) Place tofu, vinegar, mustard, and salt in a bowl or the bowl of your food processor/blender.

2) Zap/whisk until smooth.

3) Drizzle in oil, blending as you go. Continue whizzing/whisking until light and fluffy (about 2 minutes in the food processor).

4) Serve as desired. Refrigerate up to two weeks.

5) Accept praise and amazement at your hard work graciously.

~~~

Vegan Worcestershire Sauce
Makes 1 cup or 16 1-tablespoon servings.
Adapted from Cooking with Rockstars.com.

1/2 cup white vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 tablespoon molasses
1 tablespoon tamarind concentrate
1/4 teaspoon grated ginger
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon onion powder
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1) Combine all ingredients into a small nonreactive mixing bowl. Stir well.

2) Transfer to a container with a lid—a glass jar or take-out container is perfect.

3) Allow flavors to meld overnight or at least 8 hours. (I let it sit out on the counter, but you can refrigerate if you feel safer that way.)

4) Shake and strain out the red pepper flakes.

5) Serve with veggie burgers, bloody marys, and confidence.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price per Serving
Vegan Mayo: 42.5 calories, 4g fat, 3g fiber, .8g protein, $0.05
Vegan Worcestershire Sauce: 8 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.03

Calculations

Vegan Mayo
6 oz silken tofu: 187.5 calories, 9.6g fat, 48g fiber, 12g protein, $0.42
1/4 safflower oil: 480 calories, 56g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.32
2 tbsp white vinegar: 6 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $.02
2 tsp Dijon mustard: 6 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $.02
1/4 tsp salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
Totals: 679.5 calories, 65.6g fat, 48g fiber, 12g protein, $.80
Per Serving (totals/16): 42.5 calories, 4g fat, 3g fiber, .8g protein, $05

Vegan Worcestershire Sauce
1/2 cup white vinegar: 24 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.08
2 tbsp soy sauce: 22 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.08
1 tbsp brown sugar: 50 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.03
1/2 tbsp molasses: 29 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.07
1 tbsp tamarind concentrate: 8 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.13
1/4 tsp grated ginger: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1/4 tsp Dijon mustard: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1/4 tsp garlic powder: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1/4 tsp onion powder: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1/4 tsp black pepper: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1/4 tsp cinnamon: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
Totals: 133 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $.53
Per Serving (totals/16): 8 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $.03

Veggie Might: Market Finds - Green Garlic and Garlic Scapes Pesto

Written by the fabulous Leigh, Veggie Might is a weekly Thursday column about all things Vegetarian.

New York City has a farmer’s market network that reminds me of an urban library system. The Union Square Greenmarket is the main library—the big one with the lions out front, where you can find everything but can be overwhelmed by choice. Then there are neighborhood branches scattered throughout the five boroughs that get less glory, but provide amazing service to the local communities.

My neighborhood market is perfect: between five and eight vendors, just enough variety to keep things interesting but never overwhelming, and prices that are competitive with—often cheaper than—the local groceries. For the most part, the farmers who frequent my local branch keep it simple—nothing too out of the ordinary. If I want wacky veg, I go to Union Square.

But every now and then, I get a surprise.

My last few visits I’ve been a skosh obsessed with something I’d never seen or tried before: green garlic. When I approached the table last Wednesday, I thought the giant green stalks with white bulbs were spring onions. That’s not what the sign said, so I asked the farmer. “Nope, green garlic,” he said with the slightest of smiles.

“How do you use it?” I asked. I’d already decided to buy it—might as well get the skinny from the source.

“Just like you would regular clove garlic, though you don’t have to smash this. Just slice it and eat it. It’s milder and sweeter than regular garlic.”

“Can you eat the stalks?”

“Yeah, but you’ll want to cook them—maybe sauté them like scallions.”

Brilliant. I love discovering new vegetables. That night I made green garlic mashed potatoes to raves. While prepping dinner, CB and I each tried a piece of it raw. It was strong at first bite, like garlic would be, but immediately became milder, though I don’t know if I would call it sweet. CB claimed, as I suspected he would, “Yeah, I could eat this like fruit.” Dude loves garlic.

I started putting green garlic in everything—eggs, stir-fry, salad, sandwiches—sautéing the stalks as instructed. As my obsession grew, my supply dwindled. Saturday, I went back and, to my great joy, found more green garlic and, this time, garlic scapes.

So pleased I was with my score, I practically danced all the way to brunch, demanding my fellow diners to “smell this—it looks like an onion, but you use it like garlic!” and “check it, scapes! They’re the shoots from garlic before it’s harvested!” I’m so much fun.

Taking inspiration from dearest A’s garlic scape exploits, an amazing black bean salad recipe from 101 Cookbooks that darling S made for me last summer, and the fact that I’ve read, like 15 pesto recipes in the past week, I created what might be the greatest dressing for bean salad ever in the history of bean salad: Green Garlic and Scapes Pesto.

Pesto means “to pound” or “crush”, as with a mortal and pestle. Most people know the classic Genoese pesto (basil, garlic, salt), but you can make pesto from any herb crushed with garlic and salt; in days gone by I’ve made pesto from cilantro, arugula, and stinging nettles.

Green Garlic and Scapes Pesto is my masterpiece. It is easily one of the best things I’ve eaten in a long time. Light enough to be a salad dressing, it would also easily stand up to pasta.

I tossed the pesto over 3 cups of black beans and served it on a bed of arugula. It was amazing—tangy, spicy, and garlicky but not overwhelmingly so. For as long as green garlic and scapes are available at my neighborhood market, this dish will be in heavy circulation.

~~~

If you like this recipe, you may also like

• Black Bean Salad with Fresh Corn
• Potato Salad for Rainy Day People
• Pasta with Nettles, Sorrel, and Lemon

~~~

Black Bean Salad with Green Garlic and Scapes Pesto
Serves 6

pesto
1 bulb green garlic (white part only), chopped
1/4 cup garlic scapes, chopped
1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
3 dried red chilies, chopped (or 3/4 tsp red pepper flakes)
2 tbsp almonds, chopped
2 tbsp lime juice
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tbsp agave nectar
1/2 tsp sea salt

salad
3 cup black beans, cooked (or 2 15 oz cans)
6 cups arugula or salad greens of your choice

Note: I used a food processor to make the pesto. If you have a mortal and pestle, I salute you.

1) Rinse, soak (3 hours or up to overnight), and cook (about 45 minutes) 1/2 cup of dried black beans, which will result in about 1 1/2 cups of cooked beans. - OR - Open a couple of cans of black beans, rinse well, and set aside.

2) Haul out the food processor. Coarsely chop all vegetables and nuts before putting them into the food processor.

3) Whiz together green garlic, scapes, parsley, red chilies, almonds, lime juice, olive oil, agave nectar, and salt until fully combined and the desired smoothness is achieved.

4) Toss together with black beans.

5) Serve on a bed of arugula or any salad green of your choice.

6) Text, email, facespace, tweet, or call everyone you know and tell them how fabulous your dinner is.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price per Serving
147 calories, 9.3g fat, 2.2g fiber, 2.7g protein, $.63

Calculations
1 1/2 cups cooked black beans: 330 calories, 3g fat, 7.5g fiber, 7.5g protein, $.35
1 bulb green garlic: 4.2 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $.30
1/4 cup garlic scapes: 8 calories, 0g fat, .75g fiber, .5g protein, $.32
1 tbsp fresh parsley: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein, $.02
3 dried red chilies: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein, $.02
2 tbsp almonds: 104 calories, 10g fat, 2g fiber, 4g protein, $.34
2 tbsp lime juice: 9.5 calories, .03g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $.10
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil: 360 calories, 42g fat 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.24
1/2 tbsp agave nectar: 30 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein $.08
1/2 tsp sea salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein, $.02
6 cups arugula: 37 calories, 1g fat, 3g fiber, 4g protein, $2.00
Totals: 882.7 calories, 56g fat, 13.3g fiber, 16g protein, $3.79
Per Serving (totals/6): 147 calories, 9.3g fat, 2.2g fiber, 2.7g protein, $.63

Veggie Might: Salad Confounds, Dressing Rules (Also, Lemon-Ginger Dressing)

Penned by the effervescent Leigh, Veggie Might is a weekly Thursday column about the wide world of Vegetarianism.

You know the cliché about bachelors and cooking? Well, my boyfriend doesn’t have an operational stove in his apartment. Let me clarify: the stove works, but the gas isn’t turned on.

So. Here’s what we’ve been doing: eat food I cook at my apartment (Charming Dinner Guest ring a bell?); eat food I cook and schlep to his apartment; or eat take out at his place.

Of course, the latter is not so frugal and has been wearing on both our wallets. The middle (is there a word for the middle?) is okay once in a while, but it would be so much easier to just cook the food there.

The thing is he wants to cook at home—to save money, to eat healthier, and to save money. It’s what we all want, right? So the gas people are coming in a couple of weeks. In the meantime, we have to eat, and sometimes at his place. Thank sweet Angela Lansbury and her angel above, Bea Arthur, for salad.

Or so I thought… For anyone out there who has struggled with salad, this is for you.

HOW SALAD CONFOUNDS
A short play in one act

Cast of Characters
Leigh, your lovable Veggie Might blogger
Charming Boyfriend, her gentleman caller

CB: So, I’ll go to the grocery after work. What can be cooked in the microwave for supper?

Leigh: (aside) Um…NOTHING! (to CB) Why don’t you grab some stuff for a salad?

CB: You know how much I love salad dressing. I could drink the stuff. But you may be overestimating my abilities to “grab some stuff for a salad.”

Leigh: Ha. I’ll bring my homemade dressing and chickpeas. I’ve also baked some tofu we could have on sandwiches.

CB: I’d don’t know if you’ve been to the produce aisle, but everything’s green and looks like it can go into a salad.

Leigh: Don’t panic. I’ll coach you on salad-stuff buying. Here's what I would get. Just pick a couple from each list. Simpler is always better.

The Basics
Greens (mixed field greens [aka mesclun], spinach, romaine, green or red leaf lettuce, or any combo thereof)
Onion
Carrot
Celery
Tomatoes (if the tomatoes are ripe)
Red pepper
Green pepper
Cucumber

The Extras
Avocado
Jicama
Broccoli or cauliflower
Turnip or radishes
Feta or goat cheese (optional)

CB: THANK YOU. You don't know how long I've been howling at the Internet, wondering they mean by "salad greens.” Seriously, this has been an issue for years.

Leigh: That’s why I’m here.

Blackout

Once you have your salad fixin’s you’ll need dressing that people (CB) want to drink independently of the salad. No need to spend $5.00/bottle for something you can whip up in a few minutes for pennies.

This handy ratio will allow you to make just about any salad dressing your heart desires: 2 parts oil : 1 part acid. Mark Bittman recommends a shallot accompany the oil/acid base, and I faithfully adhere to that advice. After that you’re free to toss in any seasonings, herbs, or sweeteners you like.

Salad dressing is infinitely customizable. My favorite salad dressing oils are olive and sesame, but use whatever you like. You can use any acid: vinegar, citrus fruits, wine; plus any ingredients that tip your canoe: ginger, honey, garlic, mustard, dill.

Be creative. Taste as you go. If you over-season, just add more oil and acid. Don’t be afraid to throw stuff in and see what happens.

CB’s salad was a success. He bought spinach, romaine, carrots, onion, red pepper, and two avocadoes, which are still ripening on his counter. Combined with the chickpeas and lemon-ginger salad dressing I brought, we had the perfect midweek meal—no cooking required.

~~~

If you like this post, you very well may enjoy:

• Summer Squash Salad
• Relaxed Kale and Root Veg Salad
• Rainy Day Potato Salad

~~~

Lemon-Ginger Dressing
Makes about 3/4 cup, or 12 tablespoon-sized servings

1/4 cup lemon juice (2 lemons)
scant 1/2 cup olive oil
1 shallot
2-inch piece ginger, grated
1 tsp agave nectar
salt to taste
freshly ground pepper to taste

If you’re using a blender:
1) Juice the lemons, coarsely chop your shallot, and grate the ginger.

2) Pour the lemon juice and olive oil into the blender and zap it for a few second or until it’s thoroughly emulsified.

3) Add the shallots and ginger. Zap it again until the shallots are decimated (minced will do).

4) Add agave, salt, and pepper. Zap it once again. Give it a taste. Do you like it? Does it need more of some thing? It’s your dressing! Zap, taste, tweak, and repeat until you like it.

If you’re not using a blender:
1) Juice the lemons, finely mince your shallot, and grate the ginger.

2) Pour the lemon juice and olive oil into a large bowl and whisk it like mad for a couple of minutes or until it’s thoroughly emulsified.

3) Add the shallots and ginger. Whisk it like mad again.

4) Add agave, salt, and pepper. Whisk it once again. Give it a taste. Do you like it? Does it need more of some thing? It’s your dressing! Whisk, taste, tweak, and repeat until you like it.

Everybody
5) Drizzle over your favorite salad. It keeps up to a week in the fridge. Just let it come to room temp and give it a shake or stir when you’re ready to drink it. I mean, use it.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, and Price per Serving
87 calories, 9g fat, .08g fiber, $.11

Calculations
1/4 cup lemon juice (2 lemons): 24 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, $.40
scant 1/2 cup olive oil: 955 calories, 108g fat, 0g fiber, $.64
1 shallot: 20 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, $.10
2-inch piece ginger: 22 calories, 0g fat, 1g fiber, $.06
1 tsp agave nectar: 20 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, $.06
salt to taste: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
freshly ground pepper: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
Totals: 1041 calories, 112g fat, 1g fiber, $1.30
Per serving (totals/12): 87 calories, 9g fat, .08g fiber, $.11

On an Easy White Bean Dip Recipe and Being Late to the Party

Today on Serious Eats, it’s Niçoise Pasta Salad. If you’re craving a little bit of summer, you will love this like a loving lover.

The Onion’s AV Club recently asked its writers about art they discovered too late – stuff that could have been life-changing at 17, but meant zilch at 27. A few contributors mentioned video games and Star Wars. Another, Harry Potter. One woman claimed Bob Dylan did nothing for her, having been subjected to so many bad impressions before hearing the actual thing.

It was kind of a bummer, honestly. (A life without Star Wars is a life without joy.) But it got me thinking about things I waited too long to try, and how that timeframe affected my appreciation for them.

Let’s see. Emo music is definitely one. What I might have found romantic and charmingly melancholy at 20 sounded like self-indulgent whining at 25. Same goes for everything on Cartoon Network. In 2000, it could have been revelatory. In 2010, I just want Tim & Eric to get to the point already.

The big tuna: I read On the Road when I was 27, about ten years after I should have. It came highly recommended, and the prose was all it was cracked up to be – weird and gorgeous, evocative and elusive.

The problem came with the message. Instead of, “Let’s hop in a Chevy, ditch this town, and fill our time with freedom, just like Sal Paradise and Dean Moriarity!” I thought, “What irresponsible jags, leaving their families and responsibilities for such silliness. Those beatniks need some damn jobs.” Harsh, man. Harsh.

The experience made me happy I caught One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest my sophomore year of college, and Catcher in the Rye in 9th grade. They’ll always be two of my favorite novels, probably because all teenagers relate to alienation. Sometimes I wonder if I would find them foolish now, if I had just picked them up for the first time. How sad.

It’s such a relief, then, that the opposite happened with food and cooking. They meant nothing to me as a kid; they were means to an end. The less time they took, the better. But age has made me appreciate vegetables and cast iron pans, spices and the pleasures of a good roast chicken.

There’s no easy way to segue into a White Bean Dip here, so I’ll just awkwardly cut to the chase: this recipe is tasty, fantastically easy, and dang addictive. It’s barely even cooking, actually – more like alchemy. Just a few ingredients thrown together to create manna.

That aside, what about you, readers? What did you discover too late? How do they differ from the things you found later, but appreciated immediately? What do you look forward to getting into? It's all about possibilities, isn't it? And if something doesn't connect, that's okay. But what a thrill when it does.

~~~
If you like this recipe, you might also appreciate:

• Baba Ghanouj
• Lemony Hummus
• Roasted Eggplant Spread

~~~

White Bean Dip
Makes 6 servings of 1/4 cup each.
Adapted from Ellie Krieger.
(This is actually a picture of CHG's hummus, because ... uh, technical malfunction? They look pretty much the same, though.)

1 19-ounce can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus more as needed
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients in a food processor. Puree. Taste and see if you like the results. If not, add more of what’s missing. Serve.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, and Price Per Serving
115 calories, 4.5 g fat, 4 g fiber, $0.28

Calculations
1 19-ounce can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained: 440 calories, 0 g fat, 24 g fiber, $0.99
1 clove garlic: 4 calories, 0.1 g fat, 0.1 g fiber, $0.05
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil: 239 calories, 27 g fat, 0 g fiber, $0.23
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice: 8 calories, 0 g fat, 0.1 g fiber, $0.40
Kosher salt: negligible calories, fat, and fiber, $0.01
Freshly ground black pepper: negligible calories, fat, and fiber, $0.01
TOTAL: 691 calories, 27.1 g fat, 24.2 g fiber, $1.69
PER SERVING (TOTAL/6): 115 calories, 4.5 g fat, 4 g fiber, $0.28

Veggie Might: Make Your Own Ketchup

Penned by the effervescent Leigh, Veggie Might is a weekly Thursday column about the wide world of Vegetarianism.

For most people, ketchup and French fries go together like peanut butter and jelly. For me, ketchup and jelly can both take a hike. French fries are better with malt vinegar or mayo, and peanut butter is just fine all by itself.

But I also hate bananas and strawberry ice cream, so what do I know?

It’s not that I hate ketchup, lest you think me the Andy Rooney of condiments, it’s just I find it bland and not really worth the effort. I’d rather have a little zing or richness with my fried potatoes.

I only buy ketchup to make BBQ sauce or my Dad’s BBQ slaw. Last week, I had flames on the sides of my face buying a bottle of bland ConAgra tomato sauce, chockfull of high fructose corn syrup and “natural flavors” just to make the BBQ sauce for the seitan bites.

Then it occurred to me that if I can make my own mustard, I could surely make my own ketchup. So I did.

I found several recipes on the InterWebs that looked promising: Homemade Ketchup from Epicurious, Homemade Ketchup from Kiss My Spatula—which was an adaptation of this recipe from Saveur, and this no-cook ketchup recipe from Hillbilly Housewife.

Between them, I came up with my own, and wow!

This ketchup has amazing flavor from the spices, tanginess from the cider vinegar, and just the right amount of sweetness from the carrot and molasses. You can substitute brown sugar—all the recipes called for brown sugar, but I swapped it out.

Homemade ketchup is not necessarily cheaper than store-bought, but it is certainly tastier, and in my opinion, worth the effort. I will never buy ketchup again. And, who knows, I may start eating it on French fries.

~~~
If you like this recipe, you might also dig

• Veggie Burgers
• Make Your Own Mustard
• Carolina BBQ Seitan

~~~

Emperor-worthy Tomato Ketchup
Yields 3 cups/48 1-tbsp servings

28 oz can crushed tomatoes
1 tbsp tomato paste
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3–4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 rib of celery, finely chopped
1/2 large carrot, finely chopped
1/3 cup molasses
1 tsp sea salt
4 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 dried red chili
4 allspice berries
1 cinnamon stick
1/4 tsp brown mustard seed

1) In a medium saucepan on medium heat, sauté chopped onion for 3 minutes. Add minced garlic, celery, and carrot. Continue to sauté until soft for another 3–5 minutes.

2) Add crushed tomatoes and stir. Then add tomato paste, vinegar, molasses, and salt, stirring well.

3) Make a spice sachet with a piece of cheesecloth. Place cinnamon, allspice berries, dried chili, bay leaf, cloves, and mustard seeds on the cheesecloth and tie tightly. Drop into pot of tomatoes.

4) Simmer for 1 hour or until desired consistency.

5) Remove from heat. Allow to cool for 10 – 15 minutes. Remove spice sachet and pour mixture into blender. Puree until smooth.

6) Chill for 2 hours to allow flavors to blend.

7) Serve as desired or eat with a spoon. Your choice.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, and Price per Serving
14.6 calories, .3g fat, .26g fiber, $.09

Commercial Ketchup: 15–20 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, $.06

Calculations
28 oz can crushed tomatoes: 143.5 calories, 0g fat, 7g fiber, $2.49
1 tbsp tomato paste: 11.5 calories, 0g fat, .5g fiber, $.20
1/2 cup cider vinegar: 25 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, $.08
1 tbsp olive oil: 120 calories, 14g fat, 0g fiber, $0.08
1 medium onion: 40 calories, .2g fat, 3g fiber, $.50
4 cloves of garlic: 16.8 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, $.05
1 rib of celery: 5 calories, 0g fat, 1g fiber, $.025
1/2 large carrot: 15 calories, 0g fat, 1g fiber $.08
1/3 cup molasses: 325 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, $.75
1 tsp sea salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
4 cloves: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
1 bay leaf: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
1 dried red chili: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
4 allspice berries: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
1 cinnamon stick: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
1/4 tsp brown mustard seed: negligible calories, fat, fiber, $.02
TOTALS: 701 calories, 14.2g fat, 12.5g fiber, $4.21
PER SERVING (TOTALS/48): 14.6 calories, .3g fat, .26g fiber, $.09