Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Green Kitchen: Easy Meatballs and an Ethical Quandary

Green Kitchen is a bi-weekly column about nutritious, inexpensive, and ethical food and cooking. It's penned by the lovely Jaime Green.

Transitioning to the omnivore lifestyle from thirteen years as a vegetarian is not easy. Well, okay, in some ways it is fabulously easy – ordering at restaurants is a delight, and getting enough protein is a breeze. But, of course, there are complications.

My vegetarian menu was pretty ethically uncomplicated – I shopped local when I could, cooked for myself from mostly unprocessed foods, and bought my eggs from farmers I could chat with about the chickens. I wasn’t striving for sainthood, just trying to make the best choices I could. But with meat, those choices are much more complicated. And the implications are much more intense.

It crystallized the other night in the local supermarket aisle. My boyfriend and I were picking up a few things for dinner – we had kale in the fridge, so the main question was, my propensity for bowls of cheesy kale aside, what else we would eat. “What about meatballs?” he asked. “I liked those meatballs you made the other night. I can buy the meat”

The other night I’d come home with a bounty of on-sale local, grass-fed beef from Whole Foods. Now, under the C-Town fluorescent lights, I looked toward the meat case and paled.

“I have some of the Whole Foods beef in the freezer still. I can thaw that out.”

“But you bought that, that’s yours. Let me buy some for tonight.”

We walked over to the meat case. The ground beef told us it was Made in the USA, but not much more. The local butcher shop, where I get my miraculously cheap local, organic chicken, was closed.

I’ve ordered meat in restaurants. I’ve eaten chicken and beef and pork that lived who-knows-how. I know ethically-minded omnivores who eat no meat in restaurants, a restraint I’ve felt guilty for not having. But in that supermarket aisle, I found my personal line. We went home with a carrot, and I took the last of my grass-fed beef out to defrost.

This super-sale grass-fed beef was $5/lb (discounted from $8). Ground beef in the supermarket costs less than half that. I can’t always afford that. Paired with a nice pile of cheap, filling vegetables like onions and kale, you can still get a good serving of meat for under two bucks, which I didn’t even realize until I wrote up this recipe, and which I will remind myself next time my chest gets tight for budget’s sake when my boyfriend goes back for seconds.

The sale at Whole Foods ($5 for what costs $2 at the supermarket) is going on a little longer, and we’re going to stock up while we can. Beef I feel okay about eating is kinda expensive, but it’s also really, really tasty. (In case you pale at the slightly high fat count, by the way, keep in mind that grass-fed beef is much higher in super-healthy Omega-3s, that [nutrition nerd alert!!] the link between saturated fat and heart disease is in fact kinda dodgy, and that the nutrition counts are for uncooked beef – plenty of fat stays behind in the pan.)

~~~

If these look good, you will surely enjoy:
~~~

Meatballs!
(serves 3)


3/4 lb ground beef (grass-fed/pastured if you can)
1/4 medium yellow onion
1/4 medium carrot
1 tablespoon ketchup
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
a few shakes/grinds of pepper
dash of paprika
1 1/2 teaspoon olive oil

1) Preheat your oven to 300. Line a baking sheet (or 9x12 dish) with aluminum foil and set aside.

2) Dice 1/4 onion and 1/4 carrot very finely.

3) Put ground beef in a bowl. Add onion, carrot, ketchup, marjoram, thyme, basil, oregano, garlic powder, salt, pepper, and paprika. Mix with your hands.

4) Shape the meat mixture into balls, about an inch in diameter. Don’t squish them – just gently shape them with your hands. Place these on a plate.

5) Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Once it’s hot, add the meatballs – without crowding – you may have to do this in batches – to brown. DO NOT TOUCH THEM. (That’s how you get a nice brown crust.) Once the bottoms are browned, after a minute or two, turn the meatballs over to brown the other side. Once that’s done, brown a third side, if you can get them to balance.

6) Remove the browned meatballs to the foil-lined sheet, and stick that in the oven. Repeat with the rest of the meatballs, if necessary.

7) Cook the meatballs until they’re done – not pink inside any more. This time hugely varies for me, depending on how long the meatballs were in the pan, from 2-10 minutes.

8) If you’re cooking vegetables for your meatballs to nest in – I like kale and onions – cook those in the leftover meatball/olive oil, for extra deliciousness.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving: 
250 calories, 17.5g fat, 0.8g fiber, 19g protein, $1.26

Calculations:
¾ lb ground grass-fed beef (85% lean): 640 calories, 45.3g fat, 0g fiber, 56g protein, $3.33
¼ medium yellow onion: 9 calories, 0g fat, 0.4g fiber, 0.3g protein, $0.07
¼ medium carrot: 7 calories, 0g fat, 0.4g fiber, 0.1g protein, $0.10
1 T ketchup: 15 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0.3g protein, $0.05
1 t dried marjoram: 2 calories, 0g fat, 0.2g fiber, 0.1g protein, $0.04
1 t dried thyme: 4 calories, 0g fat, 0.6g fiber, 0.1g protein, $0.03
1 t dried basil: 2 calories, 0g fat, 0.3g fiber, 0.1g protein, $0.03
½ t garlic powder: 5 calories, 0g fat, 0.3g fiber, 0.2g protein, $0.02
½ t dried oregano: 3 calories, 0.1g fat, 0.4g fiber, 0.1g protein, $0.02
¼ t salt: 0 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.01
a few shakes/grinds of pepper: 0 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.01
dash of paprika: 0 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.02
1½ t olive oil: 63 calories, 7g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.05
TOTAL: 750 calories, 52.4g fat, 2.3g fiber, 57.2g protein, $3.78
PER SERVING (TOTAL/3): 250 calories, 17.5g fat, 0.8g fiber, 19g protein, $1.26

Ask the Internet: Cheap Storage for Bulk Foods?

Today's question comes from reader JL.

Q: I've started buying some staple items like dried fruits, grains, and nuts in bulk to save money. However, storage has become a bit of a problem! I have probably a dozen plastic store bags flopping around in my pantry right now. They rip easily, are hard to measure from, and slide all over the place. Plus it's hard to tell what is in each bag.

How does everyone else store their bulk items? Did you buy a set of canisters (which seems expensive) or just mix and match containers (which means they won't stack nicely)? What material do you use and why? Does anyone have a system or type of container they love? And what about taking the items home from the store? Plastic bags seem so wasteful. There must be an alternative, right?


A: JL, I do two things:
  1. Use plastic Tupperware or Chinese food soup containers, which hold those odds and ends that seem to end up all over the place. They're cheap, stackable, and you can throw them out when they start to get kind of funky.
  2. For our wedding, we received two sets of OXO storage containers (pictured upper right). They're a bit expensive at the outset, but they have been FANTASTIC at keeping our various sundries in check. Plus, they look pretty. Highly suggested.
Readers, how about you?

Want to ask the interweb a question? Post one in the comment section, or write to Cheaphealthygood@gmail.com. Then, tune in next Tuesday for an answer/several answers from the good people of the World Wide Net.

Monday, April 4, 2011

Cranberry Bulgur Wheat Pilaf, a.k.a. Bulgur Wheat is the Best

I have a new obsession: Buffy the Vampire Slayer.

Okay, two new obsessions. The first is the Joss Whedon series, which HOTUS and I have somehow missed entirely up until now, and which we are loving like one would love unlimited mimosas or the first hydrangeas of spring. I suddenly get Sarah Michelle Gellar, and see why one might consider three-foot-two-inch Seth “Scott Evil” Green a sex symbol. Also, Alyson Hannigan’s hairdresser has to call me immediately.

The second obsession is bulgur wheat. It’s not nearly as witty, and the DVDs are much harder to collect, but over the last few months, the stuff has become one of my favorite things on earth.

A briefing: Bulgur wheat is a chewy, nutty, slightly sweet whole grain. High in fiber and protein, it’s an excellent substitute for quinoa, brown rice, and other whole grains. I always buy Bob’s Red Mill brand, which is quick cooking, fairly easy to find, and reasonably priced. The only thing wrong with the food, is that I constantly get the name wrong, typing it as “wheat bulgur.” (Oh, the hijinks we get into here.)

I’ve made this fabulous grain into casseroles. I’ve made it into salads. I’ve made it into chicken burgers (recipe coming later today on Serious Eats). And now, I’ve made it into this pilaf, from Moosewood’s Simple Suppers. So. Good.

HOTUS and I just arrived home from a weekend away, and didn’t have many (read: any) fresh vegetables lying around. We did, however, have dried cranberries, an orange, a lemon, and a couple of walnuts. Those are the main flavor components of this sweet side dish, though rosemary, onions, and garlic all play supporting roles. Assembled, it’s worthy of a weeknight dinner, weekend guests, or even … stay with me here … Thanksgiving. (Seriously, this would totally work as an alternative to stuffing. Cross my heart, hope to meet some pilgrims.)

Whether or not you decide to give this dish a try (you should, though), I suggest at least buying a big bag of bulgur wheat. If nothing else, you can throw it at your Buffy marathon every time David Boreanaz attempts an Irish accent.

~~~

If you’d like to make sweet sexy talk to this, you’d flip for:
~~~

Cranberry Bulgur Wheat Pilaf
Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish
Adapted from Moosewood Restaurant Simple Suppers: Fresh Ideas for the Weeknight Table

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 garlic cloves, minced
Pinch of salt
1 orange
1/2 teaspoon dried crumbed rosemary or 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 1/2 cups wheat bulgur
1 1/2 cups water or chicken stock or vegetable stock
1/2 cup dried cranberries
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/3 cup chopped walnuts, pecans, or almonds
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1) Heat olive oil in saucepan over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, and pinch of salt and sauté onion is soft, about 10 minutes.

2) While onion is cooking, zest and juice the orange. Add zest, rosemary and wheat bulgur to onions. Cook 1 minute, stirring frequently. Add orange juice, water/stock and cranberries. Stir to combine. Drop heat to low, cover, and cook 10 to 15 minutes, or until wheat bulgur is softened. (It should be chewy, but not crunchy.) If not fully cooked by the end, add 1/4 cup water and give it another few minutes.

3) Kill heat. Stir in lemon juice and soy sauce. Add walnuts. Stir. Salt and pepper to taste. (Salting this correctly will make a ton of difference.) Serve.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
4 servings: 412 calories, 14 g fat, 13.1 g fiber, 10 g protein, $1.10
6 servings: 275 calories, 9.4 g fat, 8.7 g fiber, 6.6 g protein, $0.73

NOTE: I used water instead of broth, fresh rosemary, Bob’s Red Mill Quick Cooking Bulgur Wheat, and walnuts. The calculations reflect that.

Calculations
2 tablespoons olive oil: 239 calories, 27 g fat, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, $0.20
1 cup chopped onion: 67 calories, 0.2 g fat, 2.2 g fiber, 1.5 g protein, $0.40
3 garlic cloves, minced: 13 calories, 0 g fat, 0.2 g fiber, 0.6 g protein, $0.12
Pinch of salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein per serving, $0.01
1 orange worth of zest: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein per serving, Free
1 orange worth of juice: 39 calories, 0.2 g fat, 0.2 g fiber, 0.6 g protein, $0.33
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein per serving, $0.33
1 1/2 cups wheat bulgur: 840 calories, 3 g fat, 42 g fiber, 30 g protein, $1.36
1 1/2 cups water: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein per serving, Free
1/2 cup dried cranberries: 182 calories, 0.7 g fat, 5 g fiber, 0.2 g protein, $0.50
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice: 4 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g fiber, 0 g protein, $0.30
1 tablespoon soy sauce: 8 calories, 0 g fat, 0.1 g fiber, 1 g protein, $0.09
1/3 cup chopped walnuts, pecans, or almonds: 255 calories, 25.4 g fat, 2.6 g fiber, 5.9 g protein, $0.75
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper: negligible calories, fat, fiber, and protein per serving, $0.01
TOTAL: 1647 calories, 56.5 g fat, 52.3 g fiber, 39.8 g protein, $4.40
PER SERVING (TOTAL/4): 412 calories, 14 g fat, 13.1 g fiber, 10 g protein, $1.10
PER SERVING (TOTAL/6): 275 calories, 9.4 g fat, 8.7 g fiber, 6.6 g protein, $0.73

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Saturday Throwback: Five Fiction Books for the Frugal Foodie

Every Saturday, we post a piece from the CHG Archives. This one came from April 2009, when the skies were blue, the chocolate was delicious, and we were all so very, very literate.

Thanks, you guys, for all your suggestions from yesterday’s nonfiction food books post. They were wonderful to see. I’d never heard of Laurie Colwin before, and hereby pledge to get on the MFK Fisher tip immediately.

Today, as a follow-up, I thought I’d recommend my favorite food fiction. Like yesterday’s selections, the books might not have much to do with inexpensive, healthy meals, but all include important scenes and plot points involving edibles.

Have you read any of these? What about other novels with stellar food scenes? The comment section is ready and waiting.

Beloved by Toni Morrison
Since main character Sethe is a cook, much of Beloved revolves around her post-Civil War era kitchen, where she prepares a series of biscuits, jams, and simple meals. Aside from that, though, there’s a flashback scene, vital to explaining the rest of the book, in which her family throws the world’s greatest picnic. It begins with a bucket of berries, and ends in luxury, celebration, and bitter feelings that affect the characters for the rest of their lives.

The Grapes of Wrath by John Steinbeck
For some reason, when I think of great literary food scenes, they tend to involve novels in which food is scarce. With no farming jobs to be had in the depths of the Great Depression, GoW’s Joad family heads west, and practically starves along the way. The skimpiness of their meals – when there’s even food to be had - makes a pivotal breastfeeding incident all the more powerful.

Harry Potter and the Sorceror’s Stone by JK Rowling
Yes, the Harry Potter series is fundamentally about kid wizards learning their craft, coming of age, and overcoming evil. But a good part their characterization comes from Rowling’s early descriptions of their relationships with food: Harry’s amazed at the surplus, Hermione's bewitched by its quality, and Ron’s just hungry. Later, the surplus of butterbeer and field trip takeout (such as it is) hints at the kids’ maturation. Good stuff. (Plus, Bertie Bott’s Beans, anyone? I’ll take one in vomit flavor.)

The Namesake by Jhumpa Lahiri
On the whole, this book rules. As something that will make you immediately want an Indian buffet shoveled straight into your mouth, it rules even harder. I’m sorry I can’t be more specific, but my drool is shorting out my keyboard.

A Tree Grows in Brooklyn by Betty Smith
Many suspect the story of Francie Nolan’s BK childhood is actually Smith’s own thinly disguised biography. Either way, her perseverance in the face of occasionally crushing deprivation will charm your face off (and make you appreciate coffee a lot more). Also, if there’s a greater fictional mom than Katie Nolan, I’d like to know.


Also of Note

Bunnicula by Deborah Howe, James Howe, and Alan Daniel
A vampire bunny? That only eats vegetables? In a story told by a dog? Yes please. Growing up, this was one of my favorite books. Has anyone read it lately? Does it hold up?

The Glass Castle by Jeannette Walls
Much like A Tree Grows in Brooklyn, this modern memoir focuses on the author’s poverty-stricken childhood, though in a series of locations instead of just NYC. As Walls becomes increasingly frustrated by her parents’ inability to provide the basics (shelter, food, etc.), I became increasingly grateful for how good I had it in comparison. Powerful.

Remembering Needleman by Woody Allen (short story)
If only because it has one of the greatest opening lines in literature: “It has been four weeks and it is still hard for me to believe Sandor Needleman is dead. I was present at the cremation and at his son's request, brought the marshmallows, but few of us could think of anything but our pain.”


Somewhat of Note

The Secret Life of Bees by Sue Monk Kidd
Can you dislike a book overall, but really dig the way it does one thing? Okay, good. Because I appreciated SLoB’s food scenes. The honey-making was particularly interesting, not least because I never considered the cleanup involved. Never, EVER spill that stuff.


Not of Note

Blood Meridian by Cormac McCarthy
Do not read this while eating. I mean it.

(Images courtesy of A Guy's Moleskin Notebook, stupid fool yet again, and UMBC.)

Friday, April 1, 2011

Top Ten Links of the Week: My Favorite Things

You know what, sweet readers? I’m tired of doing the same ol’ link roundup each Friday. So, this week, I thought I’d change it up and present you with my top ten very favorite things in life. (It’s kind of like Oprah’s list, except no one gets a Volvo in the end.) For special fun, let’s count ‘em down backwards. Hope you enjoy!

10) Golf
Is it a sport? A game? A hobby? A long walk over interminable greens taken by doughy white guys (and Tiger Woods) for eons at a time, narrated by men who are actually whispering, so as not to awaken the seniors who have mistaken the course for their retirement home living rooms? Only god and my dad know for sure.

9) The finale of Roseanne
(SPOILER ALERT) C’mon. You know Dan should have died in Season 5, anyway.

8) The country of Andorra
Once upon a time, I rode with family and friends through terrifying mountains and aneurysm-inducing switchbacks to reach this fine nation, one of the smallest in the world, only to find it’s a big mall for Vespa helmets. But the fine selection of Andorran Sausages (bologna), procured at a rustic local eatery (old diner), consumed next to an awe-inducing collection of European athletes (Luxembourg’s Winter Olympic team – not kidding) made up for the scooter ephemera.

7) Hootie and the Blowfish
Who didn’t hear “Only Want to Be With You” all through high school – in cars and restaurants, Starbucks bathrooms and Girl Scout potlucks, Buddhist retreats and Catholic mausoleums? I can only assume its demanding melody and complex lyrics (“I only wanna be with you / I only wanna be with you”) still resound for young Republicans even today.

6) Sandra Lee’s Baked Potato Ice Cream Recipe
It’s ice cream, dressed like a potato! Think of it like pizza in a lima bean suit, or Jon Hamm wearing a Kim Jong-il costume, or something that you love made to look homely and kind of melting. Sweet!

5) The subway
I wouldn’t trade any of it, whether it’s the surprisingly powerful 94-year-old woman elbowing me on to the third rail, the Williamsburg manorexic ironically wearing the same eyeglasses I was forced to don all through elementary school, or the seemingly button-down businessman clipping his nails over a screeching pack of Park Slope seventh graders all named Julian. I mean it.

4) Armando Benitez
Being a Mets fan would be great if it wasn’t for the 7th, 8th, and 9th innings of every ballgame. Fortunately, we’ve always had guys like ‘90s reliever Armando Benitez, who made sure that every pitch was as exciting as it could possibly be. Sometimes, you could actually see him thinking: Up by 12 runs against the Yankees? Let’s make this into nail-biter!

3) The Prince of Tides novel by Pat Conroy
This book makes me wish I didn’t have emotions.

2) Sinusitis
It’s really neat, that with all the junk packing our skulls – brains and muscles and arteries and whatnot – that our maker left a few holes full o’ nothin’. And it’s even neater that sometimes, those holes can get filled with stuff. And that stuff can be any color of the rainbow, and as soft and squishy or as elastic and bizarrely putty-like as you’ve ever seen. We’re like walking art projects, really, just waiting to be forcefully expectorated on to the nearest Kleenex canvas of life.

1) Mayonnaise
Wow! Mayonnaise is so …

I mean, I love the way it …

Um, so smooshy and…

Okay, you know this is an April Fool’s thing now. I can’t even pretend. Happy Friday, everybody!

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