Thursday, September 16, 2010

Veggie Might: Quick Red Posole with Beans

Written by the fabulous Leigh, Veggie Might is a weekly Thursday column about all things Vegetarian.

Remember back in the spring when I lamented the lack of shelf space for any more cookbooks? I began a project to separate the wheat from the chaff so I could make room for new and exciting titles. (So far, I’ve managed to eliminate none.)

Then in the summer, a darling friend gave me two new cookbooks for my birthday, real estate be damned, and one that I’d been dreaming of. (That’s a real friend. Thanks LB!) Immediately the cookbook culling project stalled because I just can’t stop cooking from Viva Vegan! by Terry Hope Romano. In two months, I’ve made at least seven of the recipes, and some of them twice.

Quick Red Posole with Beans has become a fast favorite. Just like it claims, it’s a snap to make: from prep to table, it takes just about an hour. While I would normally use dried beans and fresh tomatoes, their canned cousins are welcome substitutes when time is a premium.

And by all things Divine and holy, it is delicious. Warm, spicy but not too hot, and tangy, the hominy is a chewy delight playing off the creamy beans. My family ate hominy as a plain side dish next to green beans and chicken, but this is deeply flavorful hominy I can get used to.

Of course, I made a few substitutions. I reduced the oil from two tablespoons to one, subbed regular oregano for Mexican, and sent in a fresh jalapeño and smoked paprika for the ancho chili powder. That last one was a good call.

Because it is easy, fast, and infinitely scalable with supreme leftover potential, Quick Red Posole with Beans is super for a weeknight supper, potluck entree, or (sing along) last-minute lunch.

In short order, Viva Vegan! has earned its place on my crowded cookbook shelf. Now what to do about Cooking with “Friends”?

~~~

If you like this recipe, you may enjoy:
Nopales (Cactus) Chili
Nuyorican Rice and Beans
Camp Stove Chili

~~~

Quick Posole with Beans


Adapted from Viva Vegan! by Terry Hope Romano
Serves 4
1 tbsp olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 large yellow onion, diced
1 poblano pepper, seeded and diced
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced
1 tsp dried cumin
1 1/2 tsp dried Mexican oregano
1 tsp ancho chili powder (or smoked paprika)
28 oz can diced tomatoes
15 oz can hominy (posole)
15 oz can pinto beans (or black beans)
1 cup Mexican beer or vegetable stock
1 tsp salt (or to taste)
1 tbsp lime juice

Instructions
1. In a large sauce pan, heat oil over medium heat and saute garlic about 30 seconds. Then add onions and peppers. Cook until soft, about 8 minutes.

2. Add tomatoes, beans, hominy, spices, and beer or stock to vegetables. Reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Remove from heat, drizzle in lime juice, add fresh pepper, and allow to rest for 10 minutes so flavors may combine.

4. Serve in bowls topped with fresh cilantro or tomatoes and tortillas. Prep yourself for accolades.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price per Serving
210.5 calories, 4.7g fat, 7.4g fiber, 6.9g protein, $1.45

Note: I used canned beans instead of dried to save time rather than money. Your cost will be less if using dried beans.

Calculations
1 tbsp olive oil: 120 calories, 14g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.08
4 cloves garlic: 16.8 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.05
1 large yellow onion: 40 calories, 0.2g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.50
1 poblano pepper: 17 calories, 0g fat, 1g fiber, 0.5g protein, $0.50
1 jalapeño pepper: 4 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.16
1 tsp cumin: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1 1/2 tsp oregano: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1 tsp smoked paprika: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
28 oz can diced tomatoes: 132 calories, 0g fat, 6g fiber, 6g protein, $1.99
15 oz can hominy: 178.5 calories, 1.5g fat, 6g fiber, 3g protein, $1.19
15 oz can pinto beans: 309 calories, 3g fat, 16.5g fiber, 18g protein, $0.99
1 cup vegetable stock: 20 calories, 0.1g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.19
1 tsp salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
fresh ground pepper: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $.02
1 tbsp lime juice: 4.75 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.05
TOTALS: 842 calories, 18.8g fat, 29.5g fiber, 27.5 protein, $5.80
PER SERVING (totals/4): 210.5 calories, 4.7g fat, 7.4g fiber, 6.9g protein, $1.45

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

The Sweet Stuff, Part 3: Nectar of the Gods

Part 3 of a 3-part series about sugar and sugar substitutes.

Over the past two weeks, in our quest to unlock the mysteries of sweeteners, we have covered the calorie-free-but-mostly-chemical (though I still heartily vouch for stevia’s naturalosity if you buy organic) and real sugar, both refined and raw(ish). But there remains a pantheon of sweeteners yet unexamined: the gooey, sticky syrups.

Liquid sweeteners are versatile and ubiquitous. But, just as it goes with their crystalline cousins, few liquid sweeteners are untouched by human hands before they reach our supermarket shelves or farmer’s market stalls.

So what’s the buzz about the sticky sweetness?

Photo: Vicky Brock via flickr
Honey
Honey is produced by the synergy between bees and flowers. Bees collect nectar from the flowers in their mouths, mixing it with enzymes, and then deposit the resulting sweet stuff in little pockets of wax back at the hive.

Before it’s processed, raw honey is loaded with phytonutrients, trace minerals, and antioxidants depending upon flower diversity. Honey has been shown to relieve cough and treat cuts, but should not be given to children under the age of one.

Molasses
Molasses, as we covered briefly last week, is made from cane or beet sugar. The juice is extracted, the remaining crystals are removed, and a dark, thick syrup remains. Also known as treacle, molasses is most commonly used in baking and cooking. A gingerbread man would not be the same without rich molasses.

Molasses comes in three grades:
Light or Barbados Molasses: From the first pressing of the sugarcane, this is the lightest in color, sweetest, and mildest variety, often used as pancake syrup or to sweeten beverages.
Dark Molasses: From the second pressing of the sugarcane, dark molasses is less sweet and has a stronger flavor than light. It is most commonly used in baking and cooking.
Blackstrap Molasses: From the third processing of the sugarcane and used mostly as an iron supplement, blackstrap molasses is considered too strong and bitter for baking. Trust me, my favorite ginger cookies and I learned this the hard way.
Unsulfered vs. Sulfured: Unsulfured molasses is free of sulfur dioxide, a preservative to improve shelf life. Sulfured molasses is not quite as sweet as unsulfured.

Photo: My Lil' Rotten via flickr
Maple Syrup
Maple syrup, the pride of the Great White North, is produced from the sap of maple trees. The process is fairly simple: sap is collected from a tapped tree, boiled to evaporate the water, and poured through a filter to remove any nasty bits. The longer the sap is boiled, the darker and sweeter the syrup.

Maple syrup, with its myriad uses, is classified into four grades, based on color, not quality:
Grade A Fancy or Light Amber: light golden color, subtle maple flavor, used for the table
Grade A Medium Amber: golden color, more distinct maple flavor, used for the table
Grade A Dark Amber: light russet color, rich maple flavor, used for the table and cooking/baking
Grade B: deep russet color, strongest maple flavor, used for the table, best grade for cooking/baking

Corn Syrup
Oh corn syrup. There is so much confusion about you. First of all, corn syrup and high-fructose corn syrup are different beasts. Corn syrup is derived from cornstarch, and while often called glucose syrup, the latter can be made from the starch of just about any other grain.

Corn syrup, both the dark and light varieties, is a Southern staple for making pecan pie. My grandmother’s pantry was never without it. We used the “maple” version for pancakes too. Light corn syrup is often used in candy making. Bonus Halloween Fake Blood Recipe: Mix 3 parts corn syrup to 1 part clear dishwashing liquid. Add red food coloring until desired color is achieved. Apply wherever fake blood is required. (Since it’s partially soap-based, it will wash out of clothes.)

Corn syrup’s evil twin, high fructose corn syrup, is corn syrup that as been chemically altered to increase the percentage of fructose which heightens its sweetness. HFCS became widespread in mass food production because a little bit goes a long way. So much so that a recent Princeton University study showed that “[a]nimals with access to high-fructose corn syrup gained 48 percent more weight than those eating a normal diet.”

Agave Nectar
Agave nectar is another highly controversial sweetener. Juice (or sap) from the agave cactus is boiled down, and, depending on the processor, treated with enzymes to increase sweetness and viscosity. Whether this process is as highly refined as that of table sugar or more “natural” is still up for debate.

Agave nectar can be found in light and dark varieties and, because of its neutral flavor, is a favorite in cooking and baking. It also dissolves easily in cold fluid, so it works well as drink sweetener.

Agave’s problems arise from being touted as a “low-glycemic” sweetener, perfect for diabetics and people watching their blood sugar. Well, agave nectar is primarily fructose, and the glycemic index only measures glucose. Do you see where I’m going? So while it rates low on the GI scale, it’s still a sugar, with the same calories as sugar, and and should be eaten in moderation, just like sugar. Sorry for the buzzkill; or maybe I just made your day.

Sweeteners, Health, and The Glycemic Index
The Glycemic Index ranks carbohydrates on a scale of 1 to 100 by the amount they raise our blood glucose levels. According to the Glycemic Index Foundation, “Choosing low GI carbs...is the secret to long-term health, reducing your risk of heart disease and diabetes and is the key to sustainable weight loss.”

* Low GI = 55 or less
* Medium GI = 56 – 69
* High GI = 70 or more

Cane sugar scores about 65, while agave comes in around 27 and HFCS around 89. Maple syrup is the most competitive, logging in at 54, while honey ranks between 65 and 83. You can see why, at a glance, agave nectar and maple syrup look healthier.

But not everyone agrees that the Glycemic Index is the best way to judge a food. It doesn’t account for how food is prepared, how much is eaten, or the fiber content of foods. For instance, there is a huge difference between the way your body metabolizes an agave-sweetened iced tea, a maple-syrup-sweetened granola bar, or a sugar-sweetened cookie.

In some ways, natural sweeteners like honey and maple syrup are the healthier choice than refined sugar. Since their production processes are less intense, the trace minerals remain. But they are still sugars, and the moderation song keeps coming on the radio because it has universal appeal. It might not be the most danceable tune, but it’s one we can all sing along to.

The Sweet Stuff in Action
Now that we know what we’re dealing with, how do we apply this knowledge in the kitchen? Well, I found two great guides to sweetener substitutions for cooking and baking: this simple, straightforward chart (thanks JBF!) and this more in-depth table, complete with notes on flavor and how to tweak baking soda quantities. Here’s a quick and dirty summary:

Alternative to Refined White Sugar Ratio
1 cup to 1 cup : turbinado, Sucanat, demerara
3/4 cup to 1 cup: honey, maple syrup, agave nectar; decrease liquid by 3 tbsp to 1/4 cup
1 1/4 cup to 1 cup: molasses; decrease liquid by 5 tbsp

Now go bake something sweet, healthy, and good!

Resources/Further Reading
The World’s Healthiest Foods
Mayo Clinic Expert Answers: Diabetes
A Sweet Problem: Princeton researchers find that high fructose corn syrup prompts significantly higher weight gain
Fooducate: Eight Facts about Agave Nectar
Grist: The Low-down on Agave and Other Natural Sweeteners

~~~

If this article tipped your canoe, float on over to
The Sweet Stuff, Part 1: A New Color in the Packet Rainbow
The Sweet Stuff, Part 2: White, Brown, and Sparkly Crystals
Mmm...Is for Maple Ginger Applesauce

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Green Kitchen: Bacony Tempeh and Fresh String Beans

Green Kitchen is a bi-weekly column about nutritious, inexpensive, and ethical food and cooking. It’s penned by the lovely Jaime Green.

Although I became a vegetarian when I was fifteen, it wasn't until almost ten years later, when I started visiting my local farmers market, that I learned to love vegetables. What I don't talk about as much is how long it took me to get my protein healthily and deliciously, too.

For many years I lived on processed fake meats – veggie burgers, chik patties, and immitation lunchmeats. They tasted good(ish), and I knew what to do with them. (Okay, I admit – Morningstar's chik patties taste amazing.) They have respectable protein numbers, and I figured that was good enough for me.

But processed food is processed food. That's one big way mock meat differs from the real thing – fresh, humane, grass-fed meat is a pretty awesome food. Reconstituted, flavored, and styled soy protein? Not so much.

Oh, and also there's the $5-a-box price tag. Ouch.

So in the last several years I've gotten to know tempehs, tofus, and seitans (and cottage cheeses and eggs). I learned – finally! – to press tofu, and cook it hot and fast; I made my own seitan. Tempeh, tofu's healthier, meatier cousin, has its own flavor and bite.

But even now, as I type the word “tempeh,” I see the supermarket case, the packages of tempeh and one variety with an enticing, bright red label. It holds about half as much food as the others, and costs almost twice as much, but man, does that label make it seem worthwhile.

Tempeh Bacon.

No, it does not taste like bacon. Nothing does. (Though good, crispy Brussels sprouts seem to, I swear, satisfy something similar.) But these thin strips of smoky, savory tempeh make my vegetarian mouth water.

And so, like a good and frugal vegetarian, I set out to learn how to make it myself. The strip shape wasn't important to me; the delicious, bacon-adjacent flavor was.

It turns out that what was missing from all my years of marinating and cooking my foods was this:

Liquid smoke. Made by running smoke through water (and then filtering out the nasty stuff), it adds that je ne sais quois, which we actually know exactly what it quois – smokiness. Bacon gets it by, you know, being smoked. My tempeh gets a few drops of this elixir. Boom.

I've been tweaking and playing around with this recipe for months, and just about every variation (dictated by what’s in my fridge) has been delicious. A tablespoon or two of maple syrup doesn't make it too sweet but adds a great layer to the flavor. Less ketchup or nutritional yeast makes the marinade thinner and less strongly savory. Play with the spices, play with the sauce. It doesn't taste exactly like bacon, but that's become sort of beside the point now. What it does taste like is good.

This recipe makes a bit more sauce than needed to cover one package's worth of tempeh. Once the tempeh was browned (ahem, very browned, sadly, in this execution), I added a bunch of trimmed string beans and a splash more oil. I sauteed until the beans were bright and just barely cooked – the freshness of their flavor plays nicely with the strong, salty sauce and tempeh. Also, the pretty green beans distract from the fact that some of my tempeh's on the blackened side of golden. Luckily, still delicious.

This sauce works brilliantly, too, as a tofu marinade. Just press the tofu well first, for at least half an hour, and let it sit at least overnight. Whereas tempeh's got its own flavor, tofu needs to really absorb the sauce. After that it's basically the same thing – cook it fast and hot, get a good brown on the outside, and enjoy.

~~~

If you enjoyed this recipe, you may also like
Seitan: Make Your Own Meat
BBQ Seitan Bites
Tofu Bahn Mi (Spicy Vietnamese Sandwiches)

~~~

Bacony Tempeh with String Beans


Serves 3

1 package tempeh, cubed (I used Lightlife Flax tempeh)
1 lb (or so) string beans (about 3 cups)

Marinade
2 T canola or other neutral oil (plus a bit more for sauteeing)
3 T soy sauce or tamari
2 T ketchup
2 T apple cider vinegar
¾ t liquid smoke
1 T nutritional yeast
½ t cumin
½ t hot paprika
½ t powdered ginger
a few dashes garlic powder
one dash nutmeg

Instructions

1. Combine marinade in a bowl or a resealable container. Whisk (or shake) to combine. Add the tempeh. Toss (or shake) to cover. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, up to a day or two.

2. Heat a splash of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add tempeh, saving extra sauce, and cook, tossing or stirring every so often, until the tempeh is hot and somewhere between golden and browned on all sides.

3. Lower heat to medium. Add string beans and remaining sauce, plus another little splash of oil if you need it (and a tiny splash of water if your beans are dry). Cook covered, stirring or tossing every so often, so nothing burns, until beans are bright green and soft, about five minutes.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price Per Serving
346.7 calories, 20.4g fat, 12.1g fiber, 18.6g protein, $1.62

Calculations
1 package tempeh: 460 calories, 18g fat, 22g fiber, 40g protein, $2.49
1 lb string beans: 102 calories, 0.4g fat, 11.2g fiber, 6g protein, $1.50
3 T canola: 371 calories, 42g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.15
3 T tamari: 32 calories, 0.1g fat, 0.4g fiber, 5.7g protein, $0.27
2 T ketchup: 29 calories, 0.1g fat, 0.1g fiber, 0.5g protein, $0.07
2 T apple cider vinegar: 6 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.08
¾ t liquid smoke: 0 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.08
1 T nutritional yeast: 27 calories, 0.3g fat, 1.7g fiber, 3g protein, $0.19
½ t cumin: 4 calories, 0.2g fat, 0.4g fiber, 0.2g protein, $0.01
½ t hot paprika: 3 calories, 0.1g fat, 0.4g fiber, 0.2g protein, $0.01
½ t powdered ginger: 3 calories, 0.1g fat, 0.1g fiber, 0.1g protein, $0.02
a few dashes garlic powder: 1 calorie, 0g fat, 0.1g fiber, 0.1g protein, $0.01
one dash nutmeg: 0 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.01

TOTAL: 1040 calories, 61.3g fat, 36.4g fiber, 55.7g protein, $4.89
PER SERVING (TOTAL/3): 346.7 calories, 20.4g fat, 12.1g fiber, 18.6g protein, $1.62

Ask the Internet: What Can I Use to Replace Mayo?

Darling Readers, last week you sure came through with emergency lunch ideas. The most popular responses were Hummus & Veggies and Leftovers. Check out the comments for more fabulous reader suggestions for quick, on-the-go meals. This week's question comes from reader Leigh-Ann. She, like our beloved Kris, is a soldier in the No Mayo Army and needs our help. (She also has a rockin' name.)

Question: What can I use instead in recipes that call for mayo? I know that in most dips you can't taste the mayo, and it's just used for the consistency. However, I would prefer to never use it in any capacity and a helpful substitute would be great!

Answer: From one Leigh to another, I must be honest; I enjoy mayo. HOWEVER, I eat it sparingly, only when it's absolutely required, and only when it's really good. The rest of the time, I make a vegan version from tofu, vegetable oil, mustard, salt and pepper. It's a super replacement for the real mayonnaise so many of you find repulsive. You might also try sour cream or heavy cream depending on the recipe. My dad uses heavy cream in his BBQ slaw.

Readers, mayo-haters and -lovers alike, what suggestions do you have for the lovely named Leigh-Ann? Do you have any experience substituting the offending egg whip? If anyone can make her mayo-free dreams come true, you can!

Want to ask the interweb a question? Post one in the comment section, or write to Cheaphealthygood@gmail.com. Then, tune in next Tuesday for an answer/several answers from the good people of the World Wide Net.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Whole Wheat Scones with Corn, Tomato, and Basil

Today on Serious Eats: Mexican Potato Soup. This soup is so fast, easy, and out-of-this-world delicious, it’ll make you believe in time travel, Nostradamus, and Yeti.

Summer is winding down, and a fall nip is in the air. It’s still warm enough to find ripe, juicy tomatoes and sweet corn at the market and cool enough to turn on the oven. There is no better time to whip up a batch of savory scones.

Scones are my Charming Boyfriend’s favorite breakfast bread, and turns out, they’re incredibly easy to make. CB prefers the classic raisin version, but I like something a little more savory. I’ve been tweaking and fine-tuning this scone recipe, from Vegan with a Vengence by Isa Chandra Moskowitz, for a few months now.

We’ve had such a gorgeous bounty of corn and tomatoes this season, I couldn’t resist stuffing a batch of scones with gold and red, inspired by the chewy, speckled corn breads I grew up with.

To stand up to the filling, I subbed in whole wheat flour and went with a nonhydrogenated shortening instead of oil to give the scones a flakier texture. I compensated with a little extra almond milk to make up for the moisture loss.

Another little trick of this recipe is to combine the almond (or soy or rice) milk with vinegar: the classic vegan method for substituting buttermilk. The vinegar curdles the nondairy milk, giving it a similar sour flavor to buttermilk. The real deal would work fine in place of the vegan version.

The fragrance of basil will fill your kitchen (or whole apartment) when these come out of the oven. Moist and flaky, a touch sweet from the corn, and tangy with tomatoes, these scones are the perfect complement to a weekend brunch. And with the more substantial whole wheat flour and veggies, they make an ideal grab-and-go breakfast bread.

Give these scones a try while the fruits and veggies of summer are still with us. But hurry! The corn is going fast. (Oh Eve Arden, that made me so sad.) Maybe scones will become your favorite breakfast bread too.

~~~

If you dug this recipe, point your divining rod to
Vegan Bran Muffins
Zucchini Bread
Tofu Veggie Scramble

~~~

Whole Wheat Scones with Corn and Tomatoes


Adapted from Vegan with a Vengence by Isa Chandra Moskowitz
Makes 16 scones

3 cups whole wheat flour
2 tbsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp sugar
1/3 cup nonhydrogenated shortening
1 1/2 cup almond milk + 2 tsp apple cider vinegar (vegan buttermilk!)
1 cup cooked corn (fresh from the cob or frozen)
1 cup tomatoes, fresh diced
2 tbsp basil, fresh chopped

Instructions
1. Preheat oven to 400 and lightly grease a cookie sheet.

2. Combine flour, baking powder, salt, sugar and into a large mixing bowl.

3. With a fork, cut shortening into flour mixture. Leaving pea-sized bits of shortening will make a flakier scone.

4. In a measuring cup, combine 1 1/2 cup almond milk and 2 tsp apple cider vinegar. Stir until milk coagulates. Fold in milk-vinegar combo, corn, tomatoes, and basil. Mix until just combined, taking care not to overwork the dough.

5. Turn out dough onto lightly floured surface and shape into a circular mound, about 12” in diameter.

6. With a sharp knife, cut the mound in half, then the halves into quarters, and so on, pizza-style, until you have 16 pieces.

7. Transfer dough to cookie sheet and bake for 12 to 15 minutes.

8. Remove from oven and allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Enjoy with a fabulous breakfast or as a midnight snack.

Approximate Calories, Fat, Fiber, Protein, and Price per Serving
127.25 calories, 4.2g fat, 3.15g fiber, 3.15g protein, $0.24

Calculations
3 cups whole wheat flour: 1221 calories, 6g fat, 48g fiber, 48g protein, $1.08
2 tbsp baking powder: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $0.04
1 tsp salt: negligible calories, fat, fiber, protein, $0.02
2 tbsp sugar: 52 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.04
1/3 cup nonhydrogenated shortening: 500 calories, 55g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.60
1 1/2 cup almond milk:: 60 calories, 4.5g fat, 1.5g fiber, 1.5g protein, $0.75
2 tsp apple cider vinegar: 2 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.01
1 cup cooked corn: 177 calories, 2g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.75
1 cup tomatoes: 22 calories, 0g fat, 1g fiber, 1g protein, $0.50
2 tbsp basil: 2 calories, 0g fat, 0g fiber, 0g protein, $0.08
Totals: 2036 calories, 67.5g fat, 50.5g fiber, 50.5g protein, $3.87
Per serving (Totals/16): 127.25 calories, 4.2g fat, 3.15g fiber, 3.15g protein, $0.24